Yeah, what he said.

Works good too. In fact, I took the system OUT of one car I sold and put it into another. No problems, I've been using it for years now and would not own another 240 without it.

You need a passenger side power lock motor (unscrew and flip the bracket to the mirror-image position) with the long lock actuator rod and link clip.

You need a couple feet of wiring and preferably a set of male and female blue (sometimes grey) plugs for the lock wires (always blue and yellow pairs). Trace it from the lock actuator in the car you're stealing it from in the junkyard...

As Art said so Art-fully, the lock switch electrical connector is over your left knee, a 3-pin molex type connector with black, red, and green. Your new lock controller will have at least a red and a green wire to tap in, and if it's like the generic unit I got, it will be set up by default to ground those wires to achieve the correct action. Match them up, red for red, and green for green. You can tap in with those scotch-lok clips or splice something together with an extra male and female lock plug like I did. Both ways will work fine, and with the dash out access won't be a problem for you. Working upside down under the dash, making splices, however is no fun for most of us, so I chose to splice mine together on the workbench.

You'll need to fish your yellow and blue wiring harness all the way through the door to the other lock wires. Your lock relays live in the center dash; I'm sure you've found those by now. The wiring from them leads to a plug to the right front door. A second harness heads down the console *somewhere* near your right foot, to do the rear doors and trunk/hatch lock on one circuit. Again, I made a spliced harness with my new extra wires to the driver's door, and just plugged it into the passenger door harness under the glovebox. There are many ways to route it across the center dash but be sure to avoid the windshield wiper guillotine-like drivetrain. And of course, these could simply be spliced into any of the blue and yellow wire pairs for the other locks. Blue to blue, yellow to yellow.

Your new drivers door lock motor mounts exactly like the passenger side one and the link rods should line right up to clip in where the lock button rod connects above the cylindrical switch.

I found space *somewhere* under the dash for the box and antenna. I think my controller had only 3 required power wires= battery power, ignition power, and ground. Don't know why it needed ignition power. Mine had other functions it could do, stuff I didn't use.

What I really want to do with mine next is use the "Accessory" button on it to click over a headlight hi-lo relay, and turn on power to the stereo. So one click you open the doors, another click you turn on the CD player... I think it'll be fun. Someday I'll get around to it. Mostly I just keep driving them though.

Have fun, I did.

--Rob