I'm not sure what your level of expertise is, so if some of this sounds pretty basic, please bear with me.

I'm not sure what you meant by "no spark at the points", but here are a few basic tests you can perform using a DVM or a test light. The DVM readings should be either zero or 12+/- volts.

First check the integrity of the ground wire running from the points to the coil. Look for worn/frayed/chafed wiring that may be grounding out.

If the wire checks out, then check for ground on/ground off operation. Pull the ground wire from the coil and test the battery side of the coil - should be 12 volts/light on. If not, check the wire that provides voltage to the coil. Should also give 12V/light on on the ground side.

Then hook up the ground connection on your meter/light to the end of the disconnected coil ground wire, supply 12 volts to the positive side of the testing device - battery positive side will work. Slowly rotate the engine and watch the points. When they close, you should get 12 volts/light on. When they open, you should get zero volts/light off. If you're getting 12 volts all of the time, either your points are not opening properly - make sure that they are opening when the interrupter block on the points is on a high side of the rotor shaft - or the ground wire is finding a ground inside the distributor. Pay close attention to the opening in the distributor body where the ground wire enters - not unusual for the wire to chafe there, and ground to the housing.

I'm not sure if this applies to your ignition system, but on older Fords, I used to be able to do these tests by moving the rotor shaft to the high side, then moving the vacuum advance plate back and forth to simulate the turning of the rotor shaft.