The check valve is only about a one and quarter inches long. I would have one in hand and change it for changing it.

You have to pull the pump down with the bracket, hoses and all.

It will be under the outlet line going over to the accumulator. It will have a hex flat for a wrench. There is a very fine seam behind the wrench flats. It will look like it’s all in one especially if it’s dirty around under there. Real fun stuff, sometimes.

There will be some gas leakage no matter how you do it. There is some back flow maybe a possibility of some siphoning from a full tank.

So wear gloves unless you’re a real he-man! You know one of those old, wrinkly, stinky, sloppy, holey clothing, balding guys and who really doesn’t care! Oh, remember to put out that stubby cigar!

As far as using some diagrams. You can not count on them having that great of detail. You’re lucky they didn’t put in a symbol of one that had a handle and a little guy with a hat named “motor”. It is what ever they feel like is enough information.

As far as making check valves integrated. It is possible, but once their crimped in, the spring and ball it’s finished. Crimping is a one time thing.

Should it fail quality control pressure tests, they lose the whole pump housing. It is a far more complicated type of precision part.

On the replaceable check valve, it is made the same way but they just lose the short piece.

I thought you cleared the cold start injector as not leaking. As far as not coming on you’ll need a node (or noid) light or meter while cranking to check that. You were talking like it was lean starting after sitting, I thought?

Anyways, keep us informed. We are like deer after a salt lick, we keep coming back!

Ah! Better than deer, even if were shot down.

Phil