Art -

The battery is not dead. It won't charge under additional load. Be it headlights or just the vehicle running at higher RPM other than idle.

As to not alienate myself from those who are here to help, I provide the following information per your instruction.

All connections are now as factory.

Prior to the testing, the initial battery state was 12.28.
Prior to the testing, the battery state after starting was 12.38 and rising
after ~15 seconds - 12.65 and rising slower
after ~30 seconds - 12.70 and rising slower
after ~60 seconds - 12.80
no other battery data was taken at this point.


With negative probe to negative battery post and testing:

1) negative battery clamp - 0.000v
2) Thermostat housing bolt/body - 0.000v
3) alternator housing - 0.035v
4) alternator B+ post - 12.84v
5) alternator D+ tab - 12.80v
6) battery positive clamp - 12.77v
7) battery positive post - 12.77v

As I believe that I have stated in another earlier post, following is a quick summary of a repeated test performed today.

Start car, battery connected with no load - 12.80v
car running, apply load - battery drops steady to ~11.0v and will go lower - measured at battery post and B+ terminal
car running, remove load - battery eventually recovers to 12.8v
car running, remove battery positive connection - alternator voltage instantly at 14.2+v
apply load with no battery - remains at over 14v
re-introduce battery to system circuit - system voltage starts diving to below the 11v level
remove battery from the system circuit - system voltage continues to dive (as low as 9v and falling) and will not recover.
remove load with battery out of system circuit - alternator now producing 14.2+v

Regarding the "W" terminal, I could put my scope on it. What do you suggest I look for? I have already put my scope on the B+ post and as I can tell, the waveform looked correct, no gaps in the ripple voltage.

Regarding Remy, the aftermarket rebuilt alternator provided by my local supply house offers "Worldwide" products. These rebuilt products are actually done by Remy. This particular alternator has a Bosch brush/regulator assembly installed.

Regarding the motor, it is actually a B230F according to the sticker on the front of the motor that also has a bar code on it as well as another motor number code. This statement is to address your comment about the harmonic balancer.

Lastly, and exactly, you refer to my milli amp currents being out of line. Do you refer to the information I was given from the mfg. or the data that I measured? I believe my measurements show that something is out of line, possibly the regulator. But, its supposed to be new and functioning.

Thank you in advance for all your support. Please expand on your thoughts.

regards