Thanks for your reply's guys! Well here it is...

Well, I've figured some things out but still have a question or two I could use some help with. So I got out the test light and found that there was only a dim glow when applied to the Oil Pressure Sending Unit (Idiot Light, Not gauge) wire. I found that when I either 1) ran a wire directly from battery to the Oil Pressure Sending Unit or 2) Unplugged the oil sending wire I could start the car. If I reattached it, just turns over and over. So while I do not fully understand why, I figured out the Starting issue. The car still continues to run (and overdrive light turns on for some reason...?) when I turn off the car & remove the key. (I have to pull the Fuel Pump fuse and then turn the key to "Off" position and it will shut off as it should.

Some have suggested Ignition Switch. I have a replacement from the pull-a-part but don't want to go through changing it if you think the Oil Pressure wire (Someone said that the Oil Pressure it is a grounding wire & that's why it tells the idiot light to light up when improperly working?) may be the culprit? Or another possibility (Alternator backfeeding due to bad diodes etc.- even though the O'Reilly tester reads good alt & good diodes?)

Well here are my questions:
1) Is there a way to test if it is the Ignition Switch without the PTA removal?
2) If removal is needed, any tips? (Looks like a hell of a tight spot, upside down with a screwdriver or removing the instrument cluster- fooling with more old wires and potential screwups as a result...
3) Do you think the "Not shutting off" may have to do with the Oil Pressure wire? How to rewire it or reattach it if so?
4) Alternator bad (don't test the O'reilly testing unit basically)

Thanks a lot guys. Again.