Well, Hello there!
76K, what a sweet car. That engine isn't even broke-in!

I am sure glad to see you took in some of my advice. You have really done a quantum leap in your confidence level!
Isn't it amazing what you can do with more data to apply to a situations.

It looks like your reasoning has paid off handsomely.

The part about the CPS does not surprise me. Even two years ago does not mean a lot with those CPS's.
The part about you moving it was interesting.

I know that it is mounted into an aluminum housing and it can be a problem in that aluminum corrodes. It actually swells up from moisture interactions.

It is possible that the hole was swollen when the mechcanic changed it the last time. He may have had a problem getting the old one out or not? He may have NOT gotten the new one reseated.

If the hole had any crust on ITS seating surface when he put it back in it may have kept it from going back down deep enough. Could have been an air gap left. Time and moisture may have push it back up a little. It does not ground its self electrically in there.

The sensor is like a proximity sensor and has to be held within a specified distance of the tone ring, which is part of the flywheel.

It cannot touch the ring. I don't know the distance but I suspect it has to be within .010 to .015 of an inch of an air gap for a good strong signal.

There could be more distance allowed in case there is more runout of the flywheel. In that case one could shim the sensor up to a "mean" or average distance.

One would have to depth mic to a flat spots between the holes on the tone ring. Three to four places and then measure the length of the sensor.
This should not have to be done if the holder is good.

If you ever replace one, compare the lenghts of parts for any variances between manufacturers.

As far as tightening up connectors that would require releasing the wire from the housings and bending. Cannot say I would advise that unless you make your own pin release tool. Tiny screwdrivers or paper clips modified. Practice on junkyard clippings first!

I just do maintenance by using an electrical contact cleaner and corrosion prevention sauces or pastes!

I have used a fingernail sanding board stripped of one side to make it real thin. Scrub the internal clips and the pins on the components.

Oh! The Power stage relay connector, it's located behind a corrosive vapor making battery! Smart?
Every ten years replace the thermal paste on the heat sink plate. It dries out. Its an metal oxide that oxidizes more over time.

All these connectors have air inside them which can mean moisture comes in contact. Their not vacuum sealed and that won't work anyway. The wires are like straws!

Fill them up with up with a dielectric or anti corrosive substance film instead.

I have no experience on the air bag system. I have one in my '91 but it's either fine or not and I don't care too much! I don't put a lot of faith towards them from what I have read about their pitfalls!

I'll take my present tanks over a plastic covered styrofoam car at this time.

Phil

As far as grounding an ECU pin, I would avoid that! Lots of research needed there! Make sure you can trust your sources.