Hi,

I have the original tool that Volvo sold because I got a deal on it from Rusty at RPR when he closed his store.
I have only used once so far!

As I remember you have to assembly the tool only one way. This is due to the way the bolt has to go in towards the wheel and the nut goes on. No space for it to go the other way due to the anti splash backing plates. You will see how, right after you get under there to it.

You pull the old bushing towards the center of the car after you drop the trailing arm down out of the way. You might even remove a shock absorber to get it down. It's been awhile! (:)

I have a car lift and use the body lift points. You will have to do the same on stands I expect, if in a driveway. I use an axle stand support and do one side at a time with a hydraulic jack.


With the tool, make sure you put the spacer halves between the ears that are welded onto the axles.
You don't want to squeeze the tabs together as it will really bind up!
My setup has a spring clip that goes around the the spacer halves and hold them there.
Just saying this as I don't know what you have to be your third arm!


Make sure you get and keep everything square upon the start of tightening.
Keep an eyeball that all the parts to make sure they are tucked into their respective diameters so they can be pulled through into the outer support cup.


Now I can tell you, having a Volvo tool type tool will make things go very well but those puppies, can be tough as grown dogs, if weathered I'll bet.

If your's are? You could wet them with with a rust buster ahead of time.
Only the first half inch is really tough. The pressure drops quickily once cleared of one tab or ear.

I was able to pull them with mine, not so much because I had the tool, but because, Rusty sold me a gigantic combination wrench with the setup. Cutting them out is an option.

Rusty said, the first few times, he used it or rented it out, he had to provide the big wrench for them or complaints came back at him.
I can say it takes a lot of strength to pull them out even with that wrench, that's about two feet long.

Now whether he rented to customers back East, in the rust belt, I cannot say. I didn't ask anything about his policy and how he may have rented this one out.
All of it would have been heavy to ship, so I'm thinking only the locals got it the service mostly.

He had so much concern about those threads, in fact, he sold me the setup a couple extra threaded pulling rods that he kept in stock.
They are made by Volvo for it, as they have their own part numbered box! I think he said they were $40 apiece.
I'm fairly sure they must be up to Grade 8 strength or at least a Grade 5 metal.

The bushing really strains the pullers threads too, as I could see the wear that the previous users put on the one in it right away.
Some of it was probably abused for the reasons I stated above!

I think I gave $150 for the whole works. You will be happy you have one too!
I would suggest that if it gets really tough, loosen it and let it relax and reset! The tool or yourself as both helps! (:-)

Pushing a new one back in place was not as hard at all and I used anti seize liberally!

If yours has the hour glass looks about the rubber center put it in standing up. Some have arrows to remind you!

Center it up on the tabs, lengthwise, so the trailing arm slips up and on. Otherwise, you have to reverse the tool again.

Put the finally torque on the bolts while the axle has some weight on it.
The bushings are locked by the bolt and do not turn. This way they will not be in such a twist in the arms housing, when the car is riding at its normal height.

Most of what I said should be in the Bentley manual.

This job is far less complicated than a blower motor!

I hope you have a strong bolt, in your tool and a back with arms attached, on you! (:-)

Phil