There is a bulb holder that holds the bulb, and the holder is removed by reaching into the narrow sharp edged body of the back of the car on a station wagon model.

The bulb holder is a remarkably confusing device, with 3 tabs for electric connection and 3 tabs for fitting into the main assembly. Since there are no clear instructions, I figured out that it's the tab with a triangular connection that marks the top spot.

But the thing is, it was only after adding a dollop of lube that it worked to screw in - on the first try. This was after trying for hours - which I could hardly believe, since I'd already done this same task a dozen times before.

Go figure!