TPS: When you say the TPS is good, are you telling me that the knob on the back of the ECU alters the idle mixture?

MPS: The bung is the full load stop(zero vacuum), there is a 'screw in a screw' arangement in the diaphragm. The bigger slotted screw stops the diaphragm in the opposite, high vacuum, part throttle position. The little screw in the middle shifts both at once.

The aneroid component is the part that does all the work in the cruising & mild acceleration situations & does some barometric correction, although I don't know how much altitude correction it is capable of. This is the part that hates a rough idling cam & can crack, but you'd know immediately because it will go full rich, same as a cracked & leaking diaphragm.

Adjustment: The three screws have the same pitch. On my 164, I didn't adjust the slotted screw. I put a spacer in to allow more overall travel, adjust the small screw back to where it was originally, in relation to the transformer end.

On a dyno hold it at full throttle 4000rpm, then see if you can adjust the bung outwards enough to get the mixture right. Let cool for 5 minutes. Now repeat an adjust the timing. Let coll for 5 minutes. Now do a full sweep in acceleration mode from 3000 to 6500rpm. Get your print out. This is as good as it gets without opening the ECU up.

If you have any real performance above a stock B20E, you won't get as much fuel as you need. With a stock B20E, complete with the HQ 2.125" as seen on 140's, fixing the exhaust will give you more HP than you can get out of D-Jet WITHOUT a stupid cam.

Cruise mixture: You can lean this out as much as you like! But, too much gives an annoyingly slow throttle response. On my old 164, I leaned cruise mixture out so much it needed half throttle to do 60mph, but hard to drive. I put it back to close to stock.

(At cruise speeds you can easily run the gauge completely off the scale. This is why modern engines have electric throttles & wide band O2 sensors.)