Hi,
I don’t know anything about Volvos 1800 but if it’s a recirculating ball steering box you adjust the screw in until it takes the back and forth play of the steering wheel.
You want it down to about one inch of turning slop, made by only using one finger.
It is measured out at the extreme of its wheel diameter.
This I learned from a nice but hand strung Ford mechanic!
He worked on my 1974 pickup during its 12,000 mile warranty.
The warranty was almost worthless and truly sucked! The pickup had many other issues but its engine never ran quite right.
Things were “excused off” due to the new emissions laws that no one understood!
At 19,000 I had to work on it after a bad compression check. I took the heads loose with a ratchet and the some valves had been steamed cleaned!
A year and a half after the warranty was over, I get a letter from Ford stating they had trouble with 360 engines and would reimburse me for parts but not any labor.
I knurled the valve guides and replaced both head gaskets. Hardly any parts and of course who kept receipts!
One cylinder never regained itself back to full compression!
It’s the reason why I went to Volvos and away from all domestic vehicles for the rest of my life!
The Ford trucks and cars blow out their spark plugs and warp their plastic intake manifolds!
Bye the way,
You do not want to over tighten too much.
It’s not a rack and pinion system as those do not have any of that play.
If you are comparing to other cars, it might be the reason you are asking?
You just need to identify what Volvo or some other previous owner may have put in the car.
I also don’t know anything about how to setup a rack and pinion.
Any information that you gleam from this thread will probably be interesting to everyone with these vintage cars or various steering systems!
Good luck with my lack of information! (:-(
A 240 man,
Phil
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