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As for your pipe, as was said, a lot depends on what type of clamps were used and how badly it's rusted. Common U-bolt clamps often make an indent that makes it much more difficult to separate, which is why I always try to use the original ring clamp style unless I need some serious clamping to prevent leaks. I use an angle grinder with a cutoff blade (not a grinding blade), cutting off the muffler clamps first. Lots of sparks, so work away from fuel vapours and have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. I then cut the pipe right through an inch or so away from the mating end -that now gives you full access, also frees the rear from moving the whole exhaust system. You can even drop the rear muffler and work on it without having to be under the car. For an inside pipe I usually start by cutting a few notches in the pipe and even trying to nick a few grooves as far into the inside as I can. I'll then take a torch (acteylene preferred, MAPP second, propane will do) and try heating the pipe as close to red as I can get it, although this step may not be needed, especially if the pipe was very rusted. Using BMF pliers, screwdrivers and chisels I then collapse the inside pipe and pull it out. For removing an outside pipe. I use the cutting wheel to cut two long grooves, just stopping short of cutting into the main pipe, although I often nick it. Normally pipes have expansion slits that you can extend. Again with the pliers and chisels, I pry it open and off, nicking additional metal as needed. I've never lost a battle so far. Fitment of the new pipe can sometimes be an issue. If you get desparate, you can make your own expansion slots and drive in a hand sledge hammer head or other suitable metal nose to expand it a bit, or else use C-clamps or pliers to taper it open and later collapse it snug with C-clamps and the muffler clamp. Do not slit it so far that it will leak. Muffler cement often helps lubricate the process and seal any tiny leak. Try not to wrestle the entire muffler system too much without adding a bit of wood bracing at the front so as not to crack the down pipe, flange and brackets there.

As a future note, your '89 GLE will be a 16-valve B234F. They use a larger diameter exhaust system than the NA engine. Initially the B234F exhaust system was a separate part number, but Volvo later switched to using a revised turbo exhaust system as a universal fitment. Any exhaust components listed for a 740 turbo should fit your wagon unless someone previously did something different. I'm a bit jealous of your GLE wagon. If I'd bought a wagon instead of a new '89 GLE sedan then I'd likely still have it, but a turbo wagon would have been a safer option what with the B234F weaknesses, especially that first year with the manual TB tensioner and plastic toothed balance belt gear.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now