Yes, nice job on the valance. I've only installed used hitches, so no template, which may not have helped all that much based on your comment. I once tried using cardboard to make a crude template. It didn't turn out as well as I liked, cutting away too much material in some areas. I should have spent more time on it. The second hitch I did, I simply left the valance off. I did that once when I knew I'd be likely be wanting to keep the hitch after eventual sale, or wanting to sell it separately and make a few extra bucks. That way I could easily restore it.

FYI to others here, the longer bolts are M14 2.0 x 120mm and supposed to be higher strength Class 8.8 or even 10.9, available from places like McMaster and Fastenal (may not be in local stock). Volvo used to sell these hitch bolts as p/n 946887 "hexagon screw", now NLA in the parts chain. They were mildly popular what with all the Volvo hitches out there so the odd dealer may still have them in stock (never hurts to ask). Another source is used Volvo yards who often save those sturdy Class III hitches for separate sale. An equivalent Grade 5 or 8 SAE bolt and nut can be used and you don't want a loose fit in this hitch application, so better to use 9/16 than 1/2 even if you have to drill/grind/file it out a bit. The spacer collars should still be used even though with the hitch plate you're less likely to crush the frame. I brushed on some undercoat to protect everything.

I'm going to carry on here on the topic of trailer lighting as Other Dave here mentioned making a Euro-style 4 bulb light bar for occasional use to match the Volvo lighting. Not a bad idea. Even better to use something like that with a bike rack if the bikes or folded rack block the lights. I'll add that existing brightness may be weakened, most noticeably the brake lights. A separate wire run up to the switched side of the brakelight switch would help a bit, also bypassing the bulb sensor. Using low draw LED bulbs in the light bar would really help, also allow the light bar to be dropped without breaking filaments. Sealed plastic LED trailer and marker lights, which include a reflector, can usually be found in auto supply stores for relatively cheap.

As long as I'm on the topic of trailer lighting here, I'll carry on in case some here aren't familiar with the subtleties of trailer wiring and our Volvos. This is taken mostly from old notes I made, so fairly complete and will make for a long reply. Some of this is in the FAQ, but is more specific to 700/900s than 240s here.

For standard North American trailer lighting, a 3-wire to 4-wire (or 4-wire to 5-wire) converter should be used. They're a simple little device that uses a few cheap diodes and transistors to combine the brake and turn signal function for the trailer. These converters will upset the bulb sensor unless you run a separate wire up to the switched side of the brake light switch above the pedal to bypass the bulb sensor. Some people are able to connect to the 3rd brake light to avoid upsetting the bulb sensor, but some of the bulb sensor designs get upset if that circuit load changes too much, especially the early sensors and the KAE aftermarket sensor. Depending on sedan or wagon, you may need to use a proper Volvo green manual wiring diagram or do a bit of tracing to find the closest connection point for the 3rd brake light. I vaguely recall in sedans you can find a branch point a bit further back in the left side lower harness. For wagons, the branch point should start down by the left taillight as I recall. The park light circuit of the bulb sensor might still get upset if the trailer bulbs aren't well matched or there are poor grounds (esp. trailers stored outdoors). Look up the standard wire colours when doing the connector plugs so you won't have a problem when you rent or borrow a trailer. Wrap protective tape around the section of ribbon wire that gets pinched under the trunk lid/tailgate as it often eventually gets damaged. The proper way is to run it out through the chassis to an externally mounted connector. A common brand is Curt and they're not expensive. These converters are best installed behind the left taillight assembly where you can pick up the right turn signal from the harness that branches off to the right side from there. Crimp taps are useful and often supplied. Bulb brightness will be affected, less so if LED trailer bulbs are used.

In my region, both forward and rear trailer side markers are now required, plus rear tail and brake lights, plus any license plate lighting. All that lighting with those unpowered converters will definitely affect bulb brightness. Using all LED bulbs in the trailer will help, but the car lighting brightness will still be slightly affected.

What you really want to use is a proper powered converter and I now always use these. These small box converters use small internal relays to switch a separate 12V power source to the trailer lights, taking the load off the car lighting. This is also the best way to avoid upsetting the bulb sensor, especially if trailer lighting is less than perfectly balanced. They're roughly double the cost of the unpowered ones. Reese is a common brand, Curt also makes one. If your local auto supply doesn't have them then your local UHaul almost always has them in stock where they rent trailers, also RV dealers. I normally buy Amazon. Again, locate these behind the left taillight. I normally wrap them in a bit of foam and tuck them up out of the way so they won't rattle. They will also upset the bulb sensor unless you run a separate wire up the switched side the brake light switch, but because they are low current draw, you can usually attach them to the 3rd brake light with upsetting the sensor. For the 12V power source, the instructions usually say to use a separate wire up to the battery. It's not a large load unless you are hauling a trailer that needs it's own 12V supply, so there are simpler ways to get 12V off a shared circuit (16G wire can be used, 14G recommended, 12G is more than adequate).

o The best option is to run a line up over the wheel well and along the left side sill, more or less following the wiring harness, connecting to a lightly loaded 12V source under the dash. At the same time you can run a parallel wire up to the switched side of the brake light switch to bypass the bulb sensor. You'll want to pull trim and side panels to do a neat job. There are pro's and cons as to whether to hook up to an ignition switched 12V source. I've done that once, but now don't recommend it. The best place to connect is the hot side of the brake light switch above the pedal as a fused, unswitched power source. Your second wire for the brake lights will conveniently connect to the other side of that switch. (In 700/900s, a simpler option is to grab the 12V supply at the power seat connector under the driver, often there even without power seats.)

o The second option is to pick up 12V at the rear. This is the preferred option
to avoid having to run any wires up to the dash if you are able to use the 3rd brake light as a source. The only 12V source commonly available at the rear in our RWDs is the power antenna. There's a fused 12V source there for the antenna motor that does not come from the radio, but comes from the ignition switch. As I vaguely recall, even in wagons without a power antenna, the wire harness normally has that 12V wire although I recall it's in the right side lower wiring harness, not the left. If not, then you'll need a wire up to the front for wagons.

In all cases with a powered converter, use a fuse (15A spade) located near the converter (sometimes included with the converter). If you have any problems with the trailer lighting or wiring then you can simply pull the fuse.

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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now