Hi Bill. I just took a look at my hinges. First off, there is minimal wear on the driver door rod and of course that's because I lube the hinges every few years so the cam rollers don't freeze.

As for the hinge replacement procedure, I've not had to remove them, but I just took a good look at what would be involved. Normally you would want to remove the door with the hinges in place then remove the hinges from the door. The chassis bolts are mounted from inside the car so you need to remove the under dash knee bolster assembly and the footwell panel for access.

You can expect all the bolts to be very, very difficult to get started, quite likely requiring an impact gun with an impact quality socket and possibly a short impact quality extension and maybe even a swivel head socket for the uppermost bolt.

I mentioned about paint bonds before. You'll notice the chassis side bolts go through the hinges with the exposed threads coated in paint, so expect problems there. You're likely not going to be getting any PB Blaster into the threads. At the factory, I believe the car is primed with the doors off, but the colour and clear coats are done with the doors mounted. The ends of the door bolts will likely be similar on the inside of the door. To make matters worse, Volvo often uses red threadlocker in such applications. Failing someone here having done this job on a 700/900, I'd want to ask at a local body shop about what to expect. It wouldn't surpise me if they said a torch might be needed.

Now as for getting the main lower hinge off with the door still in place, that's likely not going to be easy, if not impossible. You won't be able to get an impact driver on the door bolts unless the door is off. Odds are you're going to need a breaker bar to get them started, partly for head clearance and mostly for leverage. For me, I'd probably start with a 1/2" impact socket on a breaker and failing that go for my high strength metric crowsfeet on a breaker (I recently got a crowsfoot set to do the PITA frozen fill tube brass fitting on the trans pan, finally resorting to cutting the tube the way I should have in the first place). I'd want to make sure the crowsfoot jaw was a snug fit so as not to round the bolt.

Let us know how you make out. Too bad the used hinges you got were rusty and frozen.

I once had to loosen a door catch for re-adjustment in my 740 (same doors). In my impact gun I twisted and snapped a supposedly impact rated hex (Torx?) bit trying to get the bolts started. The heads on those bolts are tapered and recessed, which probably makes them worse. I got a replacement bit under a lifetime guarantee. Beginning again, I started by using a hand sledge and pounding on the broken bit to try breaking the recessed head and thread bond, followed by using my extra long breaker on the new bit and it finally came.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now