Deere 620 John, er I mean Glen.

Before even seeing your query here, my wife discovered coolant trickling across the floor this morning. Guess what needs to be replaced? Yep, the waterpump (my service records say 15 years and over 150K miles, a genuine Volvo one that I picked up slightly used). And our other 940 where I just replaced the leaking radiator three weeks ago is once again starting to slowly lose coolant. I just used a paper towel to determine it's also the water pump (my records say that one is also over 10 years old with over 100K miles on it and it's a HEPU). So I've now got two to do this week and already half way through the doing first one. The GMB pumps from Rock Auto are by far probably the best bang for the buck at the moment, so I've just ordered a second to add to the one I've had on the shelf for a couple of years as I knew both were on borrowed time.

As for getting the bolts through the water pump started, both Randy and Spooky Jay have valid suggestions, plus I can offer more.

I will caution you about using a jack under the water pump. First off, you need to drop the belly pan, which often means dealing with an increasing number of cracked/broken mounting tabs. You have to be careful not to overdo it. I vividly remember the second red-block water pump I ever did, over 30 years ago now, and jacking it up from below. I must have given the jack just one pump too much as it cracked the aluminum pump housing (I vaguely recall it was a HEPU and after cracking it I'm fairly sure I went for a genuine Volvo one).

The Volvo procedure calls for the pump to be placed over the studs (the elongated holes) then lifted by hand to place and tighten the other three bolts. The upper right bolt is usually the easiest to get started by lifting up on the right side. You can then use it as a pivot to lift up the left side of the pump to place the other two bolts. A lot can depend on the thickness of the upper mushroom gasket as to whether you need prying assistance to get the bolts started. For final tightening, I pry up from below using a lever across to the power steering pulley and tighten the nuts to the specified 15 ft-lbs, although I usually tighten them a bit more than that. Don't forget to put the nut and bolt underneath on the left to secure the heater return pipe.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now