The rear end shouldn't be involved. Think front brakes, front suspension, front end alignment, front tires, most likely a combination of these. Here's some food for further thought:

Start by checking for equal tire pressure.

Lift the front end and secure on stable jack stands for safety. Rock the wheels back and forth vertically and horizontally to check bushing and end link play.

Have someone slowly feather the brakes a step at a time while you check both sides for equal scuffing and rolling resistance. Which side is the first that can't be turned by hand? The left? When released, is the pad scuffing more or less equal? If the pads are brand new, were the old pads more or less equally worn? Left pads worn more than the right? Consider that the new pad material may not be equally bedded into the rotors. Next time you've got a safe opportunity, consider re-bedding the rotors at highway speeds.

Remove the wheels and pads. Are the left and right rotors more or less evenly worn? Check the inside of the rotors for significant scoring that you may not have noticed. More or less equal scoring left and right side? Check the rotors for wear shoulders at the edges of the pads. Until the pads are fully broken in, the pads may be riding slightly on the shoulders.

Have the caliper slide pins been individually checked and serviced in recent history? Both the pins and the guides are normally unequally worn upper and lower when you wiggle them (upper always more worn than the lower as I recall), but should be similarly worn left and right side of the vehicle. Periodically remove them for inspection, cleaning and re-lubing, at least every second pad change. Replace any split boots. Also inspect the piston dust boots carefully for damage. If they're damaged, the fronts can only be replaced as part of a caliper seal re-build.

Check your control rod (radius rod) bushings, especially the front cone bushings, especially the left side as it's pulling to the left. This would be one of my main suspect areas for you. It's something that's often neglected as it can be difficult to determine if and how worn they are unless the car is up on a hoist. Unless you can identify the problem elsewhere, I'd consider replacing your cone bushings on spec as they're not expensive. At the same time you can remove the control rod to the bench to check the rear bushing for tear by locking the core in a vise and trying to move it up/down to see if the rubber is starting to separate.

If the front right dips, suspect the right strut.

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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now