ICQ>

>My turn to share some info on the Brickboard since I have just finished my part >of the 134A conversion...

Ditto. Greg's motivation to do this, motivated me to convert as well (since

I had to replace the compressor anyway).

> - your get a lot of hardware in the conversion kit for the money

Agreed, the cost of the kit is a little bit more than the cost of

a new drier. Might as well do it if you're doing more than replacing

the drier and have the system open.

>- make sure you ask for the instructions a few times when ordering. Rusty (RPR >was able to fax me 27 pages before I finsihed: thanks you). Basically the

> same instructions that you can get of the www but a bit more clear and >detailed. I have them stored in a file (RightFax) and can email to anyone who

> wants them.

This is all documented as part of the TSB describing the conversion. This

can be found on the Alldata CD-ROM (also available at places like AutoZone

as the Popular Mechanics CD-ROM).

> the A134 conversion is not that hard. I'm not sure how to get to the measured >torques using open ended wrenches; I went by feel.

You need "crow feet". These are an array of what look like just the

ends off an open-end wrench, but with square socket holes (usually 3/8"

drive). Then you can use an extender to the torque wrench. Still

I know what you mean - for the big ones on the drier, I didn't have

that large.

> the toughest part of the job was replacing the compressor. Mine was a back >breaking job since it was so low: below alt and P/S pump.

Amen to that. I'm quite sore from contorting, though I did also replace

the condensor and much was frozen together, mostly mounting bolts. All

said and done, this whole job was on part with replacing a turbo as

far as "finding muscles you didn't know you had". Just doing the

upgrade would have been easier, but I didn't like the idea of leaving

the old o-rings elsewhere in the system, esp. if I was pulling the

condensor. CHECK THE CONNECTION AT THE A/C MUFFLER (the one going to

the compressor). It was leaking on ALL THREE of my 740's and it's hard

to catch with all that undercoating on the connection. WD-40 cleaned

it up nicely and that's when I saw all the green dye! I can't imagine

working on an A/C, conversion or not, and not replacing at least that

connection (PS: dealers replace the muffler as standard course, with

a $100 pipe).

>The lines running to the compressor were tough to get off and on (seemed to be >too much bending invoved. Perhaps mine were not original Volvo.

I didn't have a problem here. Maybe someone wrenched on them too hard

or they were just frozen. Then again, I WD40'd the night before at

all connections.

>I'd consider ordering all new houses if I did it again (hopefully I'll get by)

Hmmm... quite a pricey proposition, I guess this depends on how much life

you expect from the car and how old they are. At the very least, check

them for leaks (there's a TSB on false leaking from the vinyl clad hoses

so you may want to check that out).

>I do not know why the kit did not come with new seals for the whole system:

>hopefully not needed?

I was also surprised at this. If the old seals aren't sufficient for R134,

then 10 year old versions of such in my system certainly aren't. I ordered

the ones for the compressor, condensor and muffler connections and did

them all. Can't imagine doing all that work and not replacing them.

>That's all I can think of for now. I'll let you know if anything goes wrong >with the vacume/charge next Tuesday.

I use the engine to draw a vacuum. Don't know how deep it gets to be

perfectly honest, but I wanted to see if it would hold any vacuum after

a night...

If anyone has any questions, ask away.