IMHO you don't need the entire repair kit...and it would take more than an hour to install two ball joints and four bushings, especially for a beginner without air tools.

I would guess you don't need new balljoints unless your current balljoints have torn rubber boots...and I wouldn't do new balljoints unless I did new shock/strut cartridges. Don't bother with anything other than Bilsteins for the shock cartridges or you'll just be putting in another set in 50-70K. The Bilsteins can be a rougher ride, however. Your worst problem is the IRS with Nivomats on your 760...bite the bullet and get some new Nivomats if the car sways in lane changes!!!

The cone bushings list about $20 each...you can get them from IPD cheaper or even go to polyurethane cone bushings. I haven't done that yet..the stock bushings are relatively easy to remove...with a chisel!

Be careful if you have aluminum lower control arms....the bushings have a metal core that often sticks to the countersunk holes in the lower control arm and it's easy to gouge the aluminum..steel don't worry.

One tip...getting in the new bushings can be difficult with the short bolts used to bolt the control arm/radius rod. I've found that the bolt used to hold the front swaybar link to the lower control arm is longer than the bushing bolt and can be used to initially install the bushings...tighten up the longer bolt as far as it will go, then remove it and quickly install the shorter bolt...it should catch a few threads and tighten up the rest of the way.

I like to use blue medium strength threadlocker on these threads!!

While you're at it...chances are the swaybar link bushing is probably shot too...the bushing isn't serviced anymore so you'll probably have to buy the entire link (do both sides), it's another $20-30 part.

You'll have to remove the radius rod from the body to get the rod out from the control arm...borrow an aircompressor and an impact wrench!