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Converting a 120 to Rack and Pinon

If you have got ALL the slack out of all the parts of your 122 steering
and front suspension, it should be TIGHT. If there is slop, it is because
of worn parts, not because of a recirculating ball steering gear. In addition
to steering rods, center rod ends, etc, you have ball joints, A frame bushings
(upper and lower), and the idler arm bushing. I haven't mentioned the steering
gear but it has replaceable bearings and seals also. BTW I'm not sure it is
recirculating ball. The power steering gear is, and you can find a power
steering gear (I think from a Toyota) that will bolt right up.

As far as the geometry is concerned, you have toe out and toe in so that
your car steers about a center point, and the radius of curvature and
thus the angle you steer each front wheel has to be different. You get
this because of the difference in length between the links on your front
hubs and the length of the pitman and idler arm, also the angles in both
between the mount and the outboard end. If you connect the R&P directly
to the front hub links you won't get that geometry.

I suggest you put what you have into good shape. It will end up at least
as good and a LOT cheaper and easier.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma






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New Converting a 120 to Rack and Pinon
posted by  brettsutherland subscriber  on Sat Jan 12 04:12 CST 2002 >


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