In addition to the books describing the procedure, you will need a torque wrench (within the torque range you need to go to) and a gasket scraper.

You can rent or borrow a torque wrench if you don't want to buy.

If you only plan on slapping in a new head gasket, then you won't need anything fancy for the head, such as a spring compressor for your valve springs.

Have a catch pan for coolant. You will need new coolant when it is all back together.


A few notes on torquewrenches... The best type is a dial face torque wrench, second best is a breakaway (head knuckles over) and the least reliable (fragile) is the deflector beam.

If you use a breakaway, remember to exercise it a few times to get the ratchet mechanism and associated internal parts moving freely before you apply torque to the bolts.

If you borrow a breakaway.. do NOT use one that is handed to you with tension on the spring. These type of wrenches should always be stored with the handle backed all the way out, releasing spring compression.

If you borrow a dial face. Do not use it if when you exercise it, the needle jumps at all.

In all cases, apply force to the center of the handle, or where there is a knurled band around the handle signifying the center of the leverage point.

I don't know if the manual tells you this or not, but torque should always be applied in steps. this is not the same at torque pattern. If your final torque is say 45 ft-lb, you will want to use the torque pattern to get the head torqued to say 20 ft-lb, then start all over going up to say 35 ft-lb, then a final torque of 45 ft-lb, following the torque pattern at all stages.

If you use a deflector beam, good luck.

Hope this helps... especially the knowlege on the torque wrenches. Probably more info than you requested, but you want to do it right, and not have the head warp.

It is a piece of cake though, with knowlegable help. I did my buddies Jeep engine on the side of the road in one day, and we had to run for parts a few times.

If you have any questions about torque (since I didn't get into running, versus final torque equasions or crows feet at all) don't be afraid to continue the thread.

*An extension straight down from the 3/8 (1/2") drive unit to a socket will NOT change torque, as long as you brace the wrench head with the palm of your hand, even to a deep well socket.*