Voltmeter sprang to life with a dash tap (ta).
Had the front disks machined this morning and installed the KYB inserts as well.
I went for KYB because the Volvo mechanic said after genuine Volvo struts that KYB was his pick - not as harsh as some other brands, I also had the option of installing some Monroe Whylie types - but as I remember the Volvo guy would rather be stung by a swarm of killer bees than fit the "too hard" monroes'! I have read one other differing opinion on the KYB's here.
Installation was straight forward - installed the actual inserts last night at Dad's place - he has all the tools including spring compressors. I fitted the struts with new inserts to car this morning as well as the machined disks.
The car has been transformed - one of the struts had just about failed completley so there was plenty of room for improvement.
The car is a delight to drive now. Years ago the rear self levelling suspension (it's a '85 760 turbo)was replaced with Koni shocks and springs. The rear is still firm. The suspension is smooth and quiet - I am very pleased with the results - very comfortable to drive and handling and braking are confidence inspiring. I would not say the KYB's are too harsh.
I would use KYB again. Come with a big steel nut to lock them down inside the strut and a nylock nut to secure at the top. A very nice looking black unit. comes packed with small bits of leather strapped top and bottom to hold insert slightly compressed.
My brother Andrew owns an Autoparts store - MotorMate in South Oz - he ordered in the pair of KYB inserts for $175 for both. Replacing them was easier than I imagined - although using Dad's air compressor and spring compressor made the actual changing of the inserts much easier - Dad has done heaps of them. He is a Volvo DieHard.
My ZF trans is still going great guns after the fluid flush - I gave the power steering the same treatment - the fluid in there was worse than the trans. I'm going to get a new radiator cap, it's the only part of the cooling system that isn't new now. Was able to replace the heater hose (one with the tap inline) with two generic parts (much cheaper, original was $88 each, aftermarket was $44 each and making a custom one out of generic hoses was very cheap). The more complicated heater hose I replaced with an aftermarket job - too many bends to match up with a generic type.

I'll start investigating the price of a loom and possible repairs to it too. I have pulled the IAC, dissassembled and clean - didn't look too dirty by the bushes needed a clean - it would just buzz and hum before - now it clicks quickly open and shut
I'll go give the car a rev in the dark - see what I can see.

best regards
Pete