Mario;

At the risk of being called an anti-seizophile (...and I plead: Guilty as charged!)...here is my list of things to do and check for a rear drum brake job or whenever drums are off. It's slanted toward assemblies with manual (.25 square peg) adjusters as these are a lot more common in my experience than rear ends with "star adjusters":

Dissassembly notes (after drums are removed with the mother of all pullers):

1. Avoid breathing accumulated friction material dust (use an aerosol cleaner and rags to clean, never compressed air, dust mask recommended).
2. Check amount of friction material remaining on shoes, replace if wet with brake fluid or diff oil ("cat piss"???). Replace any springs, holding pins, etc. which are more than surface rusted.
3. Remove wheel cylinders piston and inspect bores, hone, superclean, and rebuild. [If replacing, open up (even new) cylinders for inspection, and reassemble with brake fluid compatible grease - Girling red or silicon). Apply anti-seize to mounting hardware, incoming fitting and bleeding nipple.
4. Check adjuster, if this is first time you've had this corner apart (or if they have never been reworked with AS), this is the time to remove, dissassemble, clean away galvanic corrosion, and reassemble using AS.
5. Check for free movement of hand brake (assistant required). Remove end from backing plate, hold as high as possible, pour in (a couple of ounces of)solvent thinned AS (when solvent evaporates, remaning AS is very effective).

Other work:

1. Clean, and inspect drum for wear, scoring, grind away ANY amount of drum wear lip. Start process of application for bank loan if you need to by a replacement drum (that's why I would NEVER, EVER have them machined - I would rather go through shoes at twice or even three times the wear rate). Note: Drums are possibly the single most valuable item on a parts car, and to be hoarded and protected with deadly force!

Reassembly notes:

1. Set adjuster to miminum shoe spreading (adjustment peg fully CCW).
2. Apply AS to tapered axle shaft.
3. Verify friction surface is absolutely free of contamination, especially AS, before installing. Lightly braking the glaze with emery cloth will help seat new shoes.
4. Bleed until fluid runs clean and with no micro-bubbles. Rear brake valves (accumulators) can sometimes stubbornly trap bubbles (resulting in soft pedal) necessitating multiple bleeding procedures.

Adjustment notes:

1. Tighten adjuster to contact and binding of drum, then back off as few detents as necessary to get (just) drag-free rotation. Check and reset after shoes run in (100-200mi).
2. Adjust hand-brake..it should be possible to adjust it to fully lock wheels at 5-6 clicks.

Clean AS off yourself before wife (or other casual observers) refer to you as "The Tinman"

Cheers