Believe me, if you are good with remembering how you took something apart, you will smile every step of the way when you replace a blower fan with the dashboard out. No more cursing, bloody knuckles, lying on the floor, or any of that stuff. You can do it all sitting in driver/passenger seat comfort, and I might add, sitting straight upright. The only time you need to get down low is to get a few fasteners out/in on the driver's side. The rest is a snap.

This is coming from someone who has a LOT of under-dash experience on 240s. So most of the ductwork, vacuum lines, console assembly, cluster removal, etc., is all very intuitive for me.

If you check out my post from a couple of weeks ago (and subsequent posts in that thread) you'll find some good information. Believe me, they ALWAYS look like a nightmare, and with the dash out, it looks worse. But when you can look from a bird's eye view at EVERYTHING, it is much more self-explanatory.

A few tips I have are:

Remove the cluster, vents, trim, glove compartment, and outer console plastic. And under-dash panels. Take off the knee bolster on airbag cars. Take off the column trim (around the column in front of the wheel). Start removing the bolts that hold the dash in from the underneath side. There are a couple hidden beneath a flap of vinyl from the underside of the dash. Just look around; you'll find them. Then the side fasteners over in the corners.

Once the dash is loose, pull it backwards slightly and out. There are three "pegs" that hold it into the cowl. Reinstallation is a pain, but if you take your time it's only a few minutes of work.

Take the console out entirely. Remove the switch wiring and put the switches BACK on the wires. Just let them hang.

The steering column will be loose throughout this whole thing. No need for concern. The lower support is removed.. that's all.

Open the side panels to the blower. Remove the blower wheels (filing the very tip of the motor shaft on the one you're taking out usually saves the day and makes removing the wheels very easy). You might want to buy a couple of extra clips for the ends since they can break. And you do NOT want to put broken clips all the way in there. It would suck to have to undo everything just to fix a broken clip.

The blower and resistor unscrew from the left side. To get the new plug for the resistor/switch harness through the heater box, you have to remove the center line clips and pry it apart slightly. Other than that, it's easy. Then just snap them back on and forget about it.

Don't bother going under the heater box for the ground; splice in the new ground from the new harness, with the old ground that you're going to cut with enough room to splice the new one to it.

With respect to the fan switch harness, you have to remove two wires and the end clips from the harness. You need something small and thin like a paperclip, to release the internal clips on the wires so that you can snap them into the new harness. Look VERY carefully; you have to do this from the end of the harness. I'm sure you know what I mean here.

The blower is only held in by three screws. Not much. Take it out, put the new one in. Carefully put the new resistor in place, and then wire everything back up and CHECK IT OUT before you reassemble.

Reassembly, as they say in Haynes manuals, is the reverse of removal. simple.

Make sure that all the console lights work as you go. Then make sure the signals and flashers work when you get it all back together.

That's it; it really is pretty easy.

I am sure others have some excellent tips as well.
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1992 940 wagon, low miles
as well as others.