Since you have at least two days to get dealer-only parts if you break something or find something broken (harmonic balancer for one) you should be able to do it.

One thing...find the harmonic balancer holder tool. Airfreight it if you have to. I've done the flexplate with screwdriver hold and it takes two people. Yes you can stuff a rope down the spark plug hole at (really before or after depending loosening or tightening) and use the piston/con rod to hold the crank, but it's tedious compared to the special tool. IPD can overnight it.

Also, the entire timing belt cover, top, bottom, and back needs to be removed to get the seals off IIRC. The cam sprocket bolt should be loosened while the timing belt is on. IF it won't go or slips the belt, then use a screwdriver to lock the cam sprocket. I've found both the crank and the cam and intermediate sprockets come off easily with an impact wrench. I've tightened the cam and intermediate bolts with the impact wrench set at about 90ftlbs (or watch the socket when it slows down...give it about 45-60 degrees of tighten) but I usually tighten the crankshaft bolt to specs.

It helps to have a few pieces of PVC pipe or pipe bushings to push/tap in the seals. Use the new seals to figure out what size pvc bushing or pipe you need...it took me about ten minutes to make each seal tool with the bushing and a sanding disc chucked in a drill to decrease the outer diameter (the tool has to fit over the crank or camshaft or intermediate shaft and yet not exceed the outer diameter of the seal!) I used the modded bushings/pipe to tap in the seals squarely but if you have a few BIG washers around you can use the appropriate bolt to press them into place. I also like to use red loctite or loctite 518 sealer around the outside/metal of the seals, especially on the camshaft seal.

IIRC, every other timing belt change needs a new tensioner pulley although they'll probably go three.

Good luck!