24mm for the top nut. Deep socket, or open socket. A spanner wrench for the nut on the strut tube, 10, 17, 18, and 19mm wrenches. Also, an allen wrench, and a torx drive (not sure which size, to remove the caliper, and abs line). I actually found the lug nut tube thing in the tool kit to be handy to hold the nuts on the back end of the strut rod. Jack stands too.

The job is not that hard if you follow the FAQ or get a copy of Haynes. Contrary to the FAQ, i found it easiest to remove the Ball joints, caliper, rotor, tie rod ends, sway bar links (note: there are 2 kinds of end links. look at yours to know which kind you have) and the strut rod., and just pull the whole strut off in one piece, then compress the springs, remove the top nut and strut nut. PBlaster is a must. Also, just buy new BJs, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and strut rod bushings in addition to the struts. You'll have it all disassembled anyway, any if you need new struts, you probably need this stuff too. However, you'll need to get a front end alignment if you do it this way. In my experience, renewing the front end always results in needing an alignment. Have a wire brush handy to clean the ABS sensor and the slots on the hub (Contrary to Haynes, you do not need to remove the hub). Also, if you use this method, note how the abs/brake line are routed around the strut.

I don't think practice is necessary, but plan for a whole day. Note carefully that the strut top mount is assymetric. So, mark it. Read the FAQ. Re-read the FAQ, and you'll be fine.

Good luck,
Thomas