Here's a few things to check that might help you on your way.

1. Main Relay. Just because they click doesn't mean they're good. If you haven't reflowed the solder, now would be a good time. This will cure about 90% of problematic relays, however some have internal solenoid failures and can not be restored. There are two solenoids inside the relay and both of them must work for the car to start. The only easy (foolproof) test is to swap with a known working relay. Otherwise you can check it with a +12 supply and a multi-meter, or insert jumpers into the relay socket and bypass the relay completey (for testing purposes only). Make sure you have a wiring diagram before you attempt this. Search the Brickboard archives, I believe Don Foster mentioned a method of jumpering a pair of fuses together to bypass the relays. (I won't comment without a set of wiring diagrams in front of me, which I do not have for that year.)

2. Check the fueses for corrosion. Twist and turn them a bit. Make sure there's no corrosion at the ends and would prevent a good contact.

3. Check your fuel pressure regulator, if there's any sign of gas in the vacuum tube (or the smell of gas) then the internal diaphram is ruptured and it must be replaced. This will keep the car from starting since it will FLOOD the engine with fuel. A Bosch FPR will run you $35 at FCP Groton, or $65 at a Volvo Dealership.

4. Fuel Filter (as you previously suspected, and yes it is under the rear driver's side of the car on a little tray next to the fuel pump). You can get the Bosch filters from FCP Groton for only $10 and you won't find a better deal. I believe Autozone has the Deutch filters for $15 or so... If it hasn't been changed in a long time, it will be quite difficult to remove. Be prepared to replace the small plastic fuel tube that runs between the filter and the fuel pump, as these are a common casualty during filter changes. It it gets a hole or breaks, simply cut off the old hard plastic line and clamp on a new piece of 3.5" rubber fuel hose.

5. How much gas is in the fuel tank? Try filling it to 3/4 or more and seeing if it will start. If it does, the pre-pump (aka In-Tank-Pump) is toast. Keep the gas above 1/2 tank and you should be able to keep the car moving.

6. Ice accumulation. If there is Ice in the fuel lines, filter, or pumps, you aren't going to be able to remove it until the fuel system gets above freezing. This can be done one of two ways, wait for warmer weather, or use a hair dryer and warm up the various components. Using a hair dryer may take awhile, but once you can thaw the water and get fuel circulating, the Dry Gas can do its job. You will need to run the pumps after the lines are thawed to mix the dry gas with any water in the lines.

7. Verify that your timing belt isn't broken. Either remove the oil filler cap and watch the camshaft as you crank the engine, or unbolt the top part of the plastic timing cover and verify that the belt has tension on it (the front part of the cover comes off in two sections, only 2 bolts and one or two screws to remove the top half).

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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'87 Blue 245, NA 229K