Yes and no.

The theory of the hub on the tapered axle is thus... The hub expands slightly as it is drawn up over the axle by the nut. This creates an interference fit that is adequate to transmit rather a lot of torque from the axle to the wheel (thence tire and ground). Older designs didn't even have the square key and relied solely on the interference fit... called "wedgemating" by some machinists.

I can tell you that the darn thing is nearly impossible to pull off without the proper puller with even the slightest torque on that nut! (having messed up on reassembly due to impatience/fatigue and had to pull out the puller several times!)

Take note of the above suggestions and (unless you want to call your savior again) make darn certain everything is in order before putting ANY torque on that nut!!!!!

While you are in there it is a good idea to pull the axles and clean/inspect/repack the bearings. They are big so don't need to be perfect but they do need to be smooth and well greased!

The gaskets are easy to make from material and the "seals" generally do not need to be replaced. Make certain the "weep" hole beneath the axle flange is clear so any puking of diff. oil will show up there instead of washing down your nice new brakes!!! If you really must have a modern style oil seal in the hub, I have found one that apears to fit well. Look down the posts to find the number.
Go to NAPA for your wheel cylinders. IF you have the Wagner units at the rear then ask for the "all drum" cylinders as that is what they have them listed as. The part # is in a previous post too.

Mike!