Like some others have suggested, the common stalling culprits on these cars are the fuel pump relays (they can be taken apart and resoldered, and they will be as good as new), the 25-amp blade fuse behind the battery, and various other electrical connections. Especially be careful about the connectors that live behind the battery and around the coil.

The fuel pump for your year (I think) is located behind the passenger side knee bolster. If you sit in the passenger seat and straighten your right let out, your right foot will be pointing to where the relay is. You just need to take the bolster pad off by twisting the plastic connections 1/4 turn, and taking the rubber ring off of the heater vent. The fuel pump relay is white plastic and will have a date stamped on it. They need to be replaced or resoldered every four or five years or so, so if you've got a really old one that's a good sign that you've found your culprit. Take it apart by using two screwdriver opposed on either side of the two little tabs at the base of the relay. The plastic cover comes off revealing the soldering points that get hairline cracks in them. Resolder every one of the points and put it back together.

If that doesn't do it, it's probably one of the other connectors mentioned. The good news is that they usually only need to be cleaned up and dressed with some dialectric grease and put back together. The bad news is that sometimes the problems can be a little hard to track down, especially if they are intermittent. But do a thorough check through the whole engine compartment for connectors, and you will probably catch it. Sometimes you can get it to stall while idling by wiggling one of the connectors. But it's still a good idea to go through the whole compartment and clean all the connections up, because in doing so you will be preventing future problems of this sort as well.