Sounds like the fast idle is set too late in the cable motion. The new carbs are more like how the choke is supposed to work.
Depending on which needles you have on the new carbs, the jet should drop ~1/8 to 1/4 inch after the fast idle is engaged. Sounds like the cable needs to be adjusted so that the fast idle is up before the jet drops, ~ 1/2 to 3/4 inch fromm the dash. Note that the cable pull lenght is relative to the cable adjustment behind the dash, som you should be looking at what happens on the carbs, not the dash. If set properly the choke cable should reach full rich mixture when the pull is only 1 1/2 inch out, very dependant on the needle taper. It shouldn't do anything until the cable is ~ 1/2 inch out.
Which needles are you using in the new carbs?
I would not start driving until the choke is slowly pushed in to where you get a smooth idle, about 15-30 sec, use for no more than 2 min.
Don't take for granted that the carbs are set properly unless the shop had the car when it was very cold. It does sound like the cable is set properly at the dash though.
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'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon