Thank you for the Volvo manual you posted. I used the AW30-40 files to diagnose AT given up for dead (with at least burnt clutches) by Volvo mechanic that checked it. Running what diagnostics I could, AT seems fine. Indeed, it runs like new as far as I can tell. As to the PNP, try to get the car on a lift, or at least hight off the ground on four jack stands. Getting the switch out was easy on my car without touching either exhaust pipe or ATF line. All I needed was a 12 mm wrench, if I remember right. Disconnecting the 8 pin connector was harder, but still no big deal. When you have the PNP out, check the wire loom for chaffing, cracking, brittleness, etc. Good time to replace, or at least repair with tape, loom or even wires before you get a short on the road. Then, sit down and carefully take out the 6 Phillips screws on the back of the PNP. Easy does it when you pull it apart like a clam, there are three loose small copper contacts and springs behind them you do not want to lose. Carefulk also with the thin rubber gasket because you do not want to break or even strech it. Spray inside with electrical parts cleaner and brush with an old tootbrush. That should be enough. A bit of polishing of copper contact surfaces on both halves of the clam with fine emery cloth should not hurt if you wash away with cleaner any grit or particles left behind. Carefully remove contacts and springs in the moving arm and spray those cavities too. Finally, repack with grease, but not so much as to impede free movement of arm or lever that holds the contacts. Someone at Brickboard recommended silicone grease. I had brake silicone grease, but, not so sure about what to do, I used good quality dielectric grease I had. Flush ATF, preferably with about 12 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF, and perhaps put in Magnefine in-line filter while you are at it. See my reply to Dewfpro above. It seems to have worked wonders on the AW71 on my 760T.