Start simple.
If you have a test light, clip it to a good ground and turn on the ignition. Verify voltage to the coil by touching it to the "+" side of the coil (light on). Remove the dizzy cap and watch to see that the rotor actually goes round and round while doing the next test. Touch the lead to the "-" side of the coil or to the lead at the dizzy. Have an accomplice crank it over. The light should go on and off. If it doesn't you have a short in the low-tension circuit in the dizzy, check to see that the path from the points to the coil lead ("-") isn't grounded anywhere and that the points actually open. If the rotor didn't go round and round, you need to find out why and fix that. Grab the rotor and try to turn it by hand, it should only go a little way an stop to be returned under spring pressure (I've had a rotor drive tang shear off).

Next test for spark as described below. A screwdriver inserted in the coil high-tension lead and resting near a ground will give a decent gap. You will hear the snap. No snap means bad coil IF the above two tests are successful.

If you are good there, Reattach the dizzy cap, check the firing order (and direction of rotation and correct #1 position). Make certain the leads are in the cap and on the plugs firmly!

If it still won't go, check the wires for continuity as one or more may have been broken in all the labor.

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Mike!