Hey Séb!
The big deal is that the throwout bearing needs to match the pressure plate.
The clutch disk is more or less immaterial except that it needs to be in good
shape. There is one tiny thing that gave me some grief a number of years
ago. There is another make of car that uses the same clutch plate (maybe BMW)
except the plate has a little button just inboard of the friction surface
that is supposed to rub against the flywheel when the clutch has worn to a
certain point to indicate that it needs to be replaced. (They tell me it
makes a slight noise.) I had one of these plates on my 122 wagon in Panama
and it almost immediately gave me problems of the clutch dragging when I would
slightly engage the clutch and then disengage it. The cotton picker wouldn't
let go and it would continue to drag me forward until I would yank the shift
lever out of gear. Once the torsion load was off, it was OK and didn't drag
until I would do the same thing again. It was particularly annoying at traffic
lights. I posted on the board and all the answers I got didn't help, i.e.
"Your fluid is low", "Your clutch isn't adjusted right", "Your cable is
stretching" (no cable on a 122), etc etc. I didn't find out what it was
until I had it apart for some other purpose and saw that shiny button.
Apparently it cocked the disk on the input shaft enough to make it drag, even
when the clutch was completely released. I solved the problem by taking my
Dremel Moto-Tool and a #409 cutoff disk and removing the buckhead where the
button was riveted to the disk. Since the disk was still relatively unworn
I used it for several more years with no problems (until I ran a hex nut through
#2 cylinder). So if you get a remanufactured disk you might want to examine
it for unusual "extra" parts between the friction surface and the hub. The
button was stainless or plated, about 3/16" in diameter and stood up to about
the thickness of the friction material from the disk.

--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!