Hi,
Your wiring was/is correct.

>My "old" wiring setup was thus:
>(1) Thick red wire moved to the B+ terminal on the Alternator

This wire is black in the original 122 harness, but may be red from a 140's original harness if that's the chunk of wire you're using

>(2) Added a wire from the B+ alternator terminal to the + Battery Terminal

This is what made the biggest difference in amp-glow on my car after installing a new fusebox. (still glows a bit if wipers, lights, and fan are all on)

snip


D- from regulator to car chassis is fine.
D- on alternator is not that important (if your bolts holding the alternator to the engine are sound!) because the alternator mounted to the engine is grounded (if you have a good ground strap between block and body)
If D- from the regulator is run to D- on the alternator, we're relying on the alternators good ground.

I would ditch this aftermarket accessory (monitor) and wire anything assocciated with it back to stock.


I think we'd yakked about the fusebox before. I know there's P.O. paintjob on your wires but I'd clean them up and get them back on the fusebox as layed out in the Haynes manual.
If your top fuse teminals are sloppy, your amp light may be caused by a poor connection between the outer terminal/rivet/inner terminal.

Check the doubled red wire on your wiper switch for good, tight contact and check the red wires on the back of the fuel gauge for good, tight contact.

Best,
Shayne.