Hello Ron:

I am glad you posted when you did. I am on location out-of-town so my internet access is sporadic; the good news is I have Virginia with me so there is plenty of time to tinker.

Despite the IGN function discrepancy, Phil's post was very helpful and I tried several things this morning. First off, I checked to ensure that the reverse lights come on, ensuring a functioning fuse 2. Unfortunately, I did NOT have an assistant push on the ring when I did my voltage test of the brown lead. I will try that again tonight.

I went 0-for-3 on all of Phil's tests and here is where I need help, folks; I tested the horns on the battery and neither worked. I nearly gave up but decided to take them apart instead. I have heard that the screws get frozen but that was not the case here. I do not believe they were ever opened, it is just that Virginia has truly been babied.

When I got the passenger-side horn open I found the breaker contacts were corroded together. Not really knowing what I was looking at I lightly cleaned them and reassembled the horn. I retested on the battery. Still no sound. Defeated, I was about to put the whole kit-n-caboodle back on the car when I decided to open the driver-side horn. Same deal, corroded breaker contacts. Considering the IMMACULATE condition of the entire inside of both horns (they literally look like they were assembled on Sunday) I decided the breakers had to be the key. This time I unscrewed the entire breaker contact arm and really cleaned the junk off the contacts. I reassembled the horn and tested it on the battery. Still no tone.

CRAP.

However, I think I figured something out, and Ron's post backs me up. When I reassembled the horn the contact breakers were physically forced together. As I enjoyed my five hour drive to the new location today, I decided there had to be some kind of "field energizing, collapsing, re-energizing, opening and closing breakers" kind of phenomenon happening inside the horn. If the contacts cannot open and close, there is no way to have the horn sound. So, why can the contacts not open? Bueller? Anyone? I suspect that the previous owner was experiencing the stuck horn problem and turned the "adjustment screw" on the back until the contacts were mashed together, silencing the horn but also bending the contact breaker armature. Does that sound like a reasonable theory? If so, I am going to try to create a small amount of clearance between the breakers. I am measuring 12V across the exterior contacts.

Sorry for the long post everyone.

Cheers,

Jeff Pucillo