I'm about to attempt to mount a set of 16x7 Mustang "Pony" Wheels w/4x4.24 bolt pattern to my Mustang powered Volvo. Best as I can tell is that all I have to do is get the bolt pattern redrilled for 5x108 (found a local machine shop willing to fill and drill). The offset is effectively the same, so my thought process is that it should work. Has anybody tried this or something similar... got any advice before I invest the effort (time/$$).

Look online or buy Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords mag. or 5.0 Mustang mag. etc and look through the ads.

FWIW, and to echo another poster, this seems like a lot of work to mount a set of wheels - and a set of wheels with a very common bolt pattern.

What happens when you bend a rim? You're going to have to go through the same machining/refinishing ordeal just to replace it.

I can't help but think that it would be much more cost effective to change the bolt pattern on the axle/hubs than to muck about with the wheels. You can then use a standard rim or space saver as a spare, wheel replacement is easy, you could easily have another set of track or snow wheels with appropriate tires, etc...

Peter

I had my hubs and rotors drilled to 5 on 4.5" (Ford) pattern. I have run American Racing "Torque Thrust D" and now have Cragar "SS". You MUST get the wheel to be "hub centric" That it must fit tight on the hub and the wheel must run perfectly true or you will never get rid of ft. end vibrations. I had a machine shop hold the wheels by the outside of the rim, zero out the runout on the bead part of the wheel and bore the centering hole in the wheel to fit the Volvo hub with .001" clearance and face the mounting surface at the same time. This gave me perfectly true wheels. Aftermarket wheels never run true. I worked at a Volvo dealer for 16 years and everyone headed for the tall grass if a Volvo came in with any wheels other than Volvo factory wheels and we had to remove the wheels for servicing the car. "My steering wheel never vibrated before you worked on my car".

"hub centric" is a concern, while I'm not too certain I know exactly why? My assumption is that it is hub bore related. So far my research shows the Volvo hub bore at 65.1mm and the Mustang hub bore at 63.8mm - my assumption is that I can have the hub bore on the Mustang wheel enlarged to Volvo size (if I'm completely lost/wrong here plase LMK B4 I spend the dough).

With the Mustang hub center smaller than the Volvo center, the wheel will not fit. However that makes it perfect to have the wheel set up in a large lathe, zero out the bead of the rim so it runs perfectly true and bore the center to fit the Volvo hub. Now you have perfectly true wheels that wont shake the front end of the car.

Mike,
Just to make sure, it sounds like you think it's doable so long as I have the center bored to Volvo size (and the bolt pattern matched). That's what I'm hoping to hear anyway. LMK if I read it right (please clarify what you mean when you talk about the bead of the rim). Thanks, Jim

You got it. The bead is where the tire seats on the rim. It is what determines how true the tire will run.

A fill-&-redrill is expensive. I'd also be curious to know how much they charge. I was surprised at some of the prices I found to have my 240 Turbo wheels widened. For less money I could have bought aftermarket wheels in the size I wanted that would bolt on, but instead I did neither and kept my wheels the way they were.
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looking forward to hearing how this works. may i ask what the shop is charging you?

So far 2 in the thread have asked cost $$... I don't have the wheels in hand yet (they're currently being shipped my way) so the machine shop couldn't give me a firm quote(they wouldn't even commit to saying they could do it without seeing the wheels). They did suggest/imply that they had done it before and could it again at a cost of between $25-$40/wheel. My goal is to ensure it will work then run the wheels a while until I save up some $$ so I can get 'em chromed (anticipating about $100/wheel).

I'd have to agree with 383's idea of having the rotors and hubs redrilled to accept the ford pattern. I've seen this done many more times than wheels filled and redrilled. I've also seen wheels with the centers cut out and new blanks pressed/then welded in and drilled. Anyway, good luck.

Mike