I've been hearing a pronounced thud coming from the right front corner of my '98 v70xc. Doesn't make it all the time, but it can make it even on small bumps. Handling is fine. I've checked the suspension fully ladened and everything feels tight. What's the most likely culprit, upper strut mount?

TIA
Rob

I want to say - thank you for this!

I want to say - thank you for this!

Very cute :-))))

I bookmarked this link. Thank you for good job!

Great site. Keep doing.

It is the coolest site, keep so!

Perfect work!

I bookmarked this link. Thank you for good job!,

eQ3oFZ cpdnaxeorcas , [url=http://tomzsklimmbk.com/]tomzsklimmbk[/url], [link=http://zkaizevsjsbj.com/]zkaizevsjsbj[/link], http://uxdjcmvisjxe.com/

Great site. Keep doing.,

Perfect work!,

Great site. Keep doing.,

Perfect work!,

I want to say - thank you for this!,

Excellent site. It was pleasant to me.,

3FzCKu I bookmarked this link. Thank you for good job!

Expect the rubber spring seat to fall apart about now. You can replace them with the XC90 spring seat, which is stronger than those for the XC70/V70/850.

Also try to shake the sway bar endlink. If the rod moves even a little bit, replace them.

Klaus
--
I am not a mechanic, so can you trust what I type?

Thanks for the speedy response. I have a few questions.

Will I need to take the axle out of the hub, or just undo the top 3 nuts, two knuckle bolts, and sway bar link?

Any special tools or settings needed to position the upper plate?

On the sway link, is twistiness okay as ling as there is no shake?

Thanks
Rob

The end link is supposed to twist, that's OK.

The strut cannot be worked on without a spring compressor. The strut is connected to the steering knuckle via two large bolts on the bottom half and 3 small nuts in the fender tower. Do not remove the top large bolt without having the spring compressed! Ever!

The two bottom strut bolts must be replaced with new if they are loosened. And a front end alignment should also be done if the strut is removed.

Klaus
--
I am not a mechanic, so can you trust what I type?

I do have a compressor (Harbor Freight, but good enough). These will be a bit different for me as VWs don't steer through the strut. You'd think 8 ball joints would last longer than 2. Nope.

Besides OEM, are there any brands to consider or avoid? Meyle is hit or miss on VW. I've seen Febi, Meyle, and Karlyn for the sway bar links. The V90 seats are only ScanTech, but I can get the V70 seats made by Febi or Nordic.

I found a test for the bushing. Rotate (clockwise I assume) the top nut about 20 degrees and see if it springs back.

Fully ladened, the links twist quite easily. I'm thinking that there will be some slop when unloaded.

Thanks
Rob

This ain't no VW. Not V90 seats, XC90 seats for a 5,000 lb truck. Never buy Scantec unless you just want to do it again.
I buy the bolts and nuts from the dealer, not FCP.
I buy end links from IPD, better than OEM.

Klaus
--
I am not a mechanic, so can you trust what I type?

Hi Klaus

I just ordered the xc90 seats from Waltrip Volvo. From pictures it looks like the bushing is a bit taller (maybe 1/4") in the xc90 seat. Was I supposed to order xc90 bearing plate too, or will my existing bearing plates work?

Thanks
Rob

The bearing plates hold up pretty good, until the spring seat fails. The XC90 spring seat will last a long time and save the V/XC70 bearing too.

Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 1967 220S

The new seats are in. No thud anymore. One side was completely separated and the other was on it's way.

One thing I noticed is that the strut shaft was able to be pushed in and out reasonably easily. Are they supposed to be gas charged? I really don't notice any handling issues.

You are either extremely strong or the struts are almost dead. Take your pick.

If the nose of the car dips when you hit the brakes, it is time to replace the struts.

Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.