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There should be a FAQ for this problem and others.
I posted the solution to this a couple of months ago, but I can't find it in the archives.
I, in turn, got the info from another poster who had saved a previous post.
Anyway... here is what I posted in September:
... posted by Terry Haywood on Thursday, 27 September 2001, at 4:23 p.m. ...in response to "Stereo bulb burn out" posted by Paul G.
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I haven't done the radio light repair but I saved some of the posts. Here they are, no warranty expressed or implied:
This posted by "Scooter" on 11/23/00
What to do: Go to Radio Shack and buy the micro lamp type 7219 (SN 272-1092C),
2 bulbs per package at about $1.50. After removing the bulbs from your radio,
remove the old bulb elements from the plastic housing and insert the new bulb
in it's place. This is tedious as it requires you to chip away the "glue"
holding to wire leads in place and wrap the new wire leads in similar fashion.
However, I was able to do this with just an exacto knife (be very carefull PLEASE).
In a hour or so I had replaced all of my bulbs and should be good for another
100K miles. Please note that many owners (including myself) leave their headlights
on all of the time, which probably causes the bulbs to burn-out sooner.
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There were 6 lights in my SC-710 (3 lights are shared between the 1-6
radio buttons), but your SC-815 should be the same.
To access the bulbs,
1. Pull the radio partially out of the dash (no need to unhook the wiring)
and remove the screws just behind the face plate on both sides of the radio
chassis (4 screws total).
2. Remove the equalizer buttons and tuning/volume buttons, they should
pull right off. (don't loose these, as the tend to "pop" off and land in
hard to reach corners of the interior)
3. Pry the plastic retainers just behind the face plate of the radio on
the top and bottom of the radio chassis and then remove the face plate.
At this point, you will see a printed circiut board which houses the 6
lights we're trying to get at, this also must be removed.
4. Remove the 3 screws the retain the circuit board, these should be at
the lower center and upper corners of the board.
5. Carefully remove the circuit board from the radio chassis and pull
straight forward. The circuit board is modular and slides into a couple
of multi-pin connections, so be sure not to damage. If you have difficulty
removing this, try prying gently with a small putty knife.
6. With the circuit board removed, access the lights from the backside by
turning the lights 1/4 turn CCW. (you can used a small screwdriver, but
you should be able to turn with your fingers)
To reassemble your radio, follow these steps in reverse, noting that the
circuit board must line-up with the multi-pin connections and a couple of
guide pins. As for replacing the lights themselves, follow the instructions
in my previous post.
I haven't run into your PROG button problem myself, but I think your right
about something being posted for it in the past.
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... posted by Tom E on Thursday, 27 September 2001, at 7:53 p.m. ...in response to "Re: Stereo bulb burn out" posted by Terry Haywood.
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Terry - Thanks for reposting "Scooter"! Thought I was the only one with this problem.
I was able to get the bayonet bulb out without removing the circuit board. Will try the Radio Shack part.
To Volvo:
1) If parts aren't available then make them not to break.
2) If they must break then make them available.
Like these bulbs and upholstery clips.
- Tom
--
98 V70 GLT black 50k with loose upholstery clips
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... posted by Tom E on Friday, 28 September 2001, at 5:19 p.m. ...in response to "Re: Stereo bulb burn out" posted by Tom E.
Radio Shack part does work
That part again is Micro Lamp #7219 stock number 272-1092C, 2 for $1.49
This project is for someone who wants to REBUILD A TINY LIGHT BULB. It took a good sized chunk out of an hour, not counting the trip to Radio Shack, mostly carving out the old wires from melted plastic with an exacto knife under a magnifying glass. During this time, I was unable to answer the questions, "Why am I doing this?" and "Do I have WAY too much time on my hands?".
Again, if it's gonna burn out, let me buy a replacement, an' don't charge me ten bucks for it.
Good Luck!
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... posted by Mike Veglia on Friday, 28 September 2001, at 12:25 p.m. ...in response to "Re: Stereo bulb burn out" posted by KC.
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If the bulbs are quarter turn bayonette mount I would think they should be pretty commonly available in that configuration and one would not have to extricate and install new bulbs into the bayonette mounts. I'll get mine opened up soon and post the results. If I find a source for the bayonette bulbs I will include that as well. BTW, how does the radio pull? Two flat removal tools or????
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... posted by Paul G on Wednesday, 26 September 2001, at 8:20 p.m.
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I 've checked the archives because I thought someone else has had the same problem but didn't find anything. I can't see any of the buttons on my stereo except for the LCD and 2 radio presets.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
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... posted by Paul G on Tuesday, 2 October 2001, at 7:05 p.m. ...in response to "Stereo bulb burn out" posted by Paul G.
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Thanks Tom & Mike and everyone else for your advice and info. It's nice to know what I'm up against now, I just have to decide on what to do!
Thanks again,
Paul G
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... posted by Mike Veglia on Thursday, 27 September 2001, at 11:57 a.m. ...in response to "Stereo bulb burn out" posted by Paul G.
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I have that problem too in our new-to-us 1994 850t wagon. I have a pretty vast background in consumer electronic repair, including car audio, and I have to assume it is just burned out illumination bulbs. They are typically soldered in, but in some radio designs the are bayonette base like some cars have for dash illumination. Once you get the radio out of the car it should be a pretty easy repair. I'll know better soon when I get a CD changer to add to our car and will pull the head unit for some bulb replacement at the same time. BTW, anyone know who made these factory radios? (Clarion? Alpine? Matsushita-Panasonic?) Anyone know what bulb spec I should expect to find inside?
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