|
|
|
to those who have commented previously...again, I thank you..
for third time in last week, car cut out on me briefly..fortunately while parked, and was able to get it going again...with addition to all the previous mentioned repairs to do on my ride, I'm wondering if maybe in tank fuel pump is on way out...car has 130k, and as far as I know, it's the original pump...is there a way to test function, or should I just do a swap preventatively, given age and miles on the car...??....can it be changed with tank still in car, accessing through trunk?...
many thanks to all those wiser than myself
Tom
|
|
-
|
|
|
Tom,
Do you read answers to your posts?
I sent this five days ago to your post. :-(
"The next time that critter quits, get under the hood and check to see that you have pressure at the Fuel Injection rail. You could have a funky fuel pump issue."
Don't throw parts until you diagnose !
When it quits you need to see if there IS or IS NOT fuel at the rail.
Easily checked, just don't get gas in your eye.
If you have fuel at the rail and the engine quits then it's likely the main fuel
relay located above the radiator, which as Klaus says should be replaced with
a new relay. Don't rely on a junk yard or repaired relay, this relay kills the
car when it fails, and is often intermittent before total failure. This relay
is a safety relay that enables the fuel injectors to open.
Hearing the fuel pump does NOT mean it's working!
If you have no fuel at the rail and hear the pump, then you have a pump that makes noise and doesn't pump, maybe the impeller is loose on the shaft or is gone. Where it's intermittent you can probably rule out a clogged fuel line or fuel filter.
Bill
|
|
-
|
|
|
this is the first post I've seen from you in this thread...appreciate input from all...getting fuel at Schrader valve on fuel rail...have new fpr on order..
|
|
-
|
|
|
You started multiple threads for the same problem and didn't check here:
Now What?
You should check the box "Notify by email" so that you don't miss feedback.
What's the verdict with fuel at the rail when it quits ?
Bill
|
|
-
|
|
|
haven't driven car since last quitting episode...have alternate vehicle to drive around...fuel pump relay on the way via UPS..my numerous posts of late were of seemingly unrelated nature...turned to those wiser to give me a sense of whether O2 sensor on the outs could cause other problems besides code throwing and krappy mileage...this is the most modern, fuel injected, computer laden ride I've ever owned...I'm not a trained mechanic by any means, learned most of what I know by leaning on fenders/crawling underneath and asking others....the horrid weather we've been having hasn't helped...yet another nor'easter may bring us some more snow...no garage...no fun!
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be David
on
Tue Mar 20 14:30 CST 2018 [ RELATED]
|
|
1993 Volvo 850 - Went through all those parts you mentioned; pump, both relays, cap & rotor, plugs, plus fuel at rail and no luck. Finally it started stalling at stop lights all the time and "check engine" light flicked on and off while driving. Code was for cam position sensor. (just under the distributor) Changed that and all good for months. Then a couple of stalls again. Noticed engine had not been fully warming up. Coolant temperature sensor bad & stuck thermostat. Changed both those and it's been a dream since. Related to yours: Who knows? Just my experience.
|
|
-
|
|
|
appreciate the input David...did coolant system service, including new coolant, thermostat, and ECT sensor last fall, OEM parts and Zerex coolant...thinking most likely the fuel pump relay going south...I got this car with 35k,and have owned until this point, with 130k on the odometer ...has been a reliable, great long distance cruiser for me, I'm thinking just dealing mostly with parts/sensors nearing/have reached their useful life...just now, when I have the time to work on it, just not the weather...oh, the irony...
|
|
-
|
|
Well, since it sounds like you may fire the parts cannon (never something I recommend) at the car, I would add the throttle position sensor as a possibility. Wish I could direct you to a diagnosis procedure, but I don't know of one.
I was having stalling issues with my '95 854T a number of years ago. No codes, ran fine etc., but just every now and then while driving, it would quit. Would restart though. Ultimately I got a TPS code. Replaced that and the issue never occurred again.
I also struggled with a MAF plug that was causing stalling. Over time, the plug just wouldn't connect tightly anymore. It looked fine, but after much research, I found that it was a more common problem than I thought. The fix was simple and cheap. All I had to do was give some tight cable-tie support to the plug connection. That problem went away too.
|
|
-
|
|
|
many thanks for all the great advice all...going to go with the fuel pump relay first, and see if that doesn't solve this problem...
am trying to minimize the caliber of the parts cannon, but given many/most of the sensors are original to the car, I'm not adverse to some preventative replacement if it means not employing the tow truck howitzer in the midst of a long trip..
|
|
-
|
|
|
Or maybe the fuel pump relay??? worth it to replace both?...or try relay first, and see if that addresses cutting out...argh!!!
|
|
-
|
|
|
The fuel pump is 'easy' to replace on the S70. But always check the relay first, much easier and cheaper.
When you turn the key to position II, you should hear the fuel pump engage for a few seconds and then shut off. If you don't hear anything, it is probably the relay.
Loosen the 4 T25 screws that hold down the fuse tray in the engine compartment. Lift the tray and look for a red relay(#103). Pull it straight up and out. Use a paper clip to jump terminals 15 and 87. When the key is turned to position II, the pump should start. Replace the relay, they are all over Ebay, with a new one - not used.
IF you suspect the pump is not working, replace it with a Bosh pump.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
|
|
I had the same problem in my V70 and S70 about 6 months or so ago.
I pulled the fuel pump relays and took them to work, where I looked at them under a microscope. All kinds of cold solder joints. It was just ugly.
I re-flowed everything and stuck them back in the cars.
Haven't had an issue since then.
Lets us know what you find out.
Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
|
|
-
|
|
|
See if you can test the relay. Should be able to hear it.
I believe your car only has a main pump. Like my 850. Should be a Bosch unit like my 850 and 240. These are robust pumps and should go 200-300k minimum. My 240 had 300k on its main pump when I sold it. The 850 over 250k.
I suggest focusing on the relay first.
What about the ignition? How are wires, ignition coil and power stage? If any are bad it could cause the car to cut out.
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks to you both for your replies...will go with relay first...if pumps do indeed go 250k or more before needing replacement, I've got years/miles to go...
cap/rotor/wires not too new, nor not so old...have parts on hand, was waiting to change these, as well as plugs, given O2 sensor going out has likely caused some plug fouling...thew weather here has been...'rather wintery', and I'm a driveway mechanic, so haven't been able to get much done...
|
|
|
|
|
