First off, have you cleaned your PCV since you replaced everything? Next, pull plug 3 and check the threads for some oil. If there's oil then either the cap or the pcv hose is leaking (and you'll have to clean out/fix the PCV). As nice as the kit from FCP is (being complete) I'm not sold on its quality. If you have the ability to take the car apart and drive another for a couple of days then I'd suggest taking the PCV system apart and seeing if a hose is leaky/clogged, then ordering whatever you need. If you don't have the time to do the job twice, or the ability to let it sit a couple of days, then I hope youre getting close to needing an oil change. Blow air through the hose at both the top of the engine and the hose at the intake hose, then change out the oil. Also change the oil filler gasket (this should be done every 1-2 years anyway)

You've checked coolant and tranny fluid for contaminates and found none, correct? You see no oil anywhere in the engine. I'd try putting a couple of pieces of newspaper (or being on clean concrete so you know the stain would be yours) and idling/putting the engine through the gears and stalling it (both brake and a bit of gas so the torque converter pressure builds) and see if you have any RMS leak.

Then you can leakdown test depending the shop tools you have. If you have an air compressor you can get the tester around 40 from harbor freight. Test and figure out if you have an exhaust/intake/or piston leak. If you don't have an air compressor (and aren't planning on getting one anyway) have one done. You'll know the results are right, and it shouldn't cost more than $75 to complete (should be less (40-50), but shops gotta make money, right?) If the rings are leaky, then thats where the oil's burning. Unless you're wanting to spend 5-700 (or more..) rebuilding the engine, I'd live with burning the oil.

I'm willing to bet that your rpm and your oil consumption is related though...
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?