OK.. A few more things to run through.

You have fuel and spark, so it should start..

Did you get the head with the fuel-rail and injectors installed? Pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator at the end of the line. Does petrol come out? In that case the regulator is shot and raw fuel is being pumped right into the intake manifold.

Timing OK? I mean: valves closed at compression stroke? (just checking.. can be timed 'upsidedown' so they are timed to open at the compression stoke which is not really useful :-)

Compression OK? Squirt a little oil in every cylinder if fuel has washed oil film off the cylinder walls, destroying compression.

As far as injectors goes.. Hmm.. I don't know if they are compatible. Which engine? B18EP(FP)? B16F? B20F?

B16F and B18EP(FP) injector resistance 14 to 15 ohm.

B20F injector resistance 8 ohm.

As to reading codes..

At the front of the air-filter housing there's a small black box. Pop the lid. You will see 6 holes, a small button and a small LED.

A short wire with a plug is inserted in the cap you removed. Remove and insert plug in hole labeled '2'.

Now try to start the engine.

After trying keep the ignition switched on and press the black button once for about 0.5 to 1 second.

The LED will now flash a 3-digit code like this: BLINK-BLINK-PAUSE-BLINK-PAUSE-BLINK-BLINK-BLINK, which would translate to 2.1.3.

Just post the result and I can look up what it means.

You can also test/excercise a few items with this.

Keep wire connected to '2' and ignition on.

Press button 3 times.

Now the following items will be activated. Listen to the results:

- injectors (13Hz)

- Idle control valve (1Hz)

- Carbon canister valve (2Hz)

- A/C hookup (if present: 1Hz)

- Main system relay (1Hz)

- Idle control (B18U only 13Hz)

- Main relay (1Hz)

- Auxilliary water pump (B18EP(FP), B16F 0.5Hz

DO THIS TEST ONLY ONCE. Car needs to be started and run for a while before test may be done again.

Hope this helps..

Bye, Arno.