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Klaus,
Last summer I replaced all of the brake lines with stainless on my 94' 850 and noticed an improvement in pedal feel. With a good set of flare wrenches (gear wrench with pivoting ends), pre soaking with PB blaster and then soaking again everything came apart without much drama. At the same time I also did the rotors, pads, and calipers which made a major difference when all combined.
Although it's a separate topic I've had much success with the "one man bleeders" (the $6 version from auto zone, OEM specialty tool is the brand). Snip the ends of the clear tubing so it's snug on the bleeder, open it up, pump the brakes in the car (not all the way down) and it pumps fluid right through without letting any air back in. Close the bleeder and drain the small bottle as needed. I did this procedure a few days ago on my 2000 M Roadster and it took maybe an hour to flush/bleed all 4 brakes with zero bubbles on each (2 year flush interval).
Maybe I'm lucky or maybe it's all of the horror stories I've heard about hydraulic line work forcing me to overly prepare but so far my brake line/clutch slave cylinder projects have gone smoothly (knock on wood). The key ingredient is PB blaster and not being in a hurry. When you are about to throw the wrench at the wall call it good for the time being and go inside for a cold beer :)
PS, If you are going to replace the right rear flex line do yourself a favor and remove the hard line assembly that goes across the rear axle and do it while off the car.
Zack
94' 850 Turbo Wagon 303k
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Zack 94' 850 Turbo Wagon (232k)
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