For those of you who suggested that I go with a later-style master cylinder issue, may be pleased to know that I picked up a conversion ring and have installed the more conventional master cylinder from my '71 P1800.

Everything bolted up okay (a little snug on the bolt-holes), but I'm unsure about the actual pedal connection. The bolt that came with the ring kit is far too short to fully engage the brakes. Even with the adjustment fully extended I can push the pedal to the floor and still not get full resistance. Mind you I have not bled the brakes yet, but It shouldn't be going flat to the firewall and beyond.

SO... Just how long a bolt/push-rod do I need to get this setup correctly and how have other done this part of the upgrade?
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1967 P220 (Someday my daily driver...), 1971 P1800 (Parts Car), 1972 145S (1993-1997), 1977 245 DL (1993-1999), 1983 245 (1997-2001), 1986 745 GLE (1997-2000), 1990 740 GL (2003-4), 1995 945 (2004-Present)....

Get the old pushrod and add the thickness of the cylinder adaptor to it plus about 1/4 inch. there should be some adjustment on the pedal so you just have to be close. As a rule of thumb I added the thickness of the spacer I made (.5" thick) plus 1/8" (.125") for a pushrod .625" longer than stock, mine is still a little short when fully adjusted out so when the paint dries and I get some time I plan to make a .75 longer pushrod.


Cheers!
Dave G.

PS remember- it is easier to cut or grind some off than it is to add it back on!

Well...I went with Wilwood stuff so this may, or may not be applicable...

The rod that comes with Wilwood master cylinders is far too long to work with the 120 pedal. I ended up cutting almost 2" off to make it work. You might try sourcing a rod from Wilwood. They have a similar "knob" as the Volvo one does and it should give you plenty of length. That said, I can't imagine they sell these adapter rings with no solution for push-rod length, unless there is no need for one. Perhaps the brake bleed will solve your issue.

Dale