Here's the latest progress on my 240 rear end conversion. It's been a lot of work, but things are coming together now and looking pretty good. Definately not for the beginner, but it sure will be nice when I get it rolling.

Here are the shots. Two coats of POR-15 (which sprays great by the way).





Differential details.






Differential cover and brakes.

Custom made suspension arms.

Close up of front of differential. Very shinney!

Brakes Done!

Interesting looking project. Why not an 1800 rearend?

Do you have any pictures with the rearend on the car (dry fit)?

Did you have to alter the car's body or rearend? I would thing that an 240 rearend would be wider than a 122's.

Paul

BTW-Great looking shop too! Especially with the oak table;)

The only alterations are to the brackets although Craig is using stronger upper arms so he'll be fabricating body mounting points for those. When I did this in my car we simply cut the mounts off the 122 rear end and welded them to the 240 rear end. The 240 rear end is less than an inch wider then the 122.

Why not 1800? Availability. 240 rear ends are everywhere and free. 1800 rear ends..not so much. For the cost of a few hours with a welder and grinder the 240 rear end is cheaper by miles.

The only other tricky bit to work out is the parking brake. I went with the center-pull handle and kept the 240 cables. Craig is still working that out...
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Dale

As Dale said - 240 rear ends are free (or at least mine was) and the parts are pretty reasonable (bearings, seals, pads, rebuilt calipers, and new rotors for around $400 total). I've had to replace all of the bearings, change the bolt hole pattern, cut 1" off the back of the 240 drive shaft and have it balanced with the 122 front section, fabricate new lower arms and adapt 240 upper arms. Not the most straight forward conversion by a long shot. I've also dropped in a TrueTrac limited slip differential and polished the case, but this is how I do things, or should I say - over do things. I've adapted the hard lines from the 240 to work with the 122 braking system and still have to fabricate the p-brake cable attachment. I'm using the 240 brake cable and just need to make an adapter for the front ends as they are not coming into the car.

I've test fit it many, many times and have checked everything over - it's going to work just fine.

I'll be posting pictures when it is all in and driving after Christmas.

Craig

Thanks for the info. Very interesting that the 240 rearend fits in.

I have a complete suspension (front and rear) from a '73 1800 including the floor section for the trailing arms for my '65 122. Plus a collapsible steering column from a later 122. Your post made me wonder if there was something better/easier with the 240 rearend. If cost/availability was the big factor (I'm sure the 240 rearend is a little beefer than an 1800 rearend), my stuff will work for my project.

Still interested in how your project comes together. Please continue to update this thread.

Paul

Hi Paul,

The 240 rear is a little beefier as it is a Dana 30 (1030) instead of a Dana 27 (case is physically the same size). The parts availability is very good as the 30 is still made and available on Jeeps and such, so the TrueTrac was a stocked part etc (or in my case a friend had one in his garage!).

If I was doing it again, I would convert everything to the modern Volvo bolt pattern (5 - 108mm) instead of converting the rear to 5 on 4 1/2" as I did. I have a set of stock widened steel wheels that I am going to run and want the car to look stock, so 5 on 4 1/2" was required. It is easier to convert the fronts to later 1800 spindles which are already 5 - 108 or just have them redrilled. The rear rotors are only $35 each at my local parts place, all the seals were over the counter as were the bearings. Nice change from the usual internet parts chase for the old stuff.

I'll revive the thread when I get the rest of the parts for the install and get it back on the road.

Craig

I am jealous!What a terrific finish. I brushed POR15 onto my rear end(the differential that is)and its nowhere near as nice as yours. My prep probably was not as good as yours no doubt.Is it just POR15 or their Blackcote?

This is just POR-15 no top coat at all. I've had parts under the car for a couple of years (like the old rear) and have had no UV deterioration at all. The starting point for this paint was a fully polished housing by the way, there is no way POR could smooth out all the casting marks. I've had pretty good results brushing it, but spraying it was a treat - I highly recommend it.

I'm almost ready to get the rear installed. I'm short a few bushings, but have the brake lines sorted out (need painting POR silver) and then I just have to figure out what to do with the parking brake and I'll be down the road again.

Craig

Your bushings should be in the mail from James in Portland...

You shoulda' said something last weekend. I've got a little can of silver POR 15 sitting here...
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Dale

Excellent news re the bushings - now I've got a big can of silver sitting here :-) Actually I'm going to try Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood and see how it goes (the solvent pop on the diff was a pain and a known property of POR). I ordered it up with the wheel rebuilding kit for the GT wheel. I don't think there is much chance that the house will be ready for Christmas! I also got a bunch of other goodies from Eastwood like saftey wire for my brakes, and a few more body work tools we'll need for later.

And you're going to put that purty thing UNDER a car, close to the dirty ol' GROUND??!!

I wish my bodywork looked that good!
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Yup, and I drive it all the time (though not in all weather) - that's half the fun.

That is really pretty. 1031? It ought to live longer than me. ;-)
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

Hi Shannon, It's a 1030 that looks like a 1031. The 1030 should have a ribbed bottom and 7.25" ring gear...the 1031 should be smooth bottomed and have a 7.75" ring gear and the big lugs for the 740 suspension (lots of people will swear this is the way things "ARE"). The one I have has a 1030 case (I left the casting numbers on it for fun) with the lugs, which I cut off, a smooth bottom and a 7.25" ring gear. I think of it as a 1030 that looks like a 1031 - Volvo did some very confusing things.

If the work you're doing to my car ends up looking even half as nice as that I'll be an extremely happy camper. The way that POR 15 sprays, it's tempting to do the whole car...
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Dale

Thanks Dale, your car will be very pretty, don't worry I only ever do work I'm happy with :-). A few of the guys on my former Jag list did entire cars with the stuff as a primer coat. I personally think this is overkill and would not want to play back-yard chemist with getting a top coat to bind to the POR, but they are driving old Jags - they rust while you watch...real time. They do sell an etch primer for covering the POR, but stick with the same paint line form epoxy sealer to primer to top coat and you won't have trouble.

I suspect that shrinking some of the metal on the 122 should be pretty easy this weekend - shut the heater off in the garage, warm the panel and open the garage door!

Looks VERY nice and as you say super shiney. I thought I'd read that POR-15 should be overcoated as it breaks down under ultra violet light i.e. sunlight. Should be OK hidden under the car but just thought I'd mention it.

Yeah...only a real issue if your car spends considerable time on the roof...

I don't know how long it takes to actually start breaking down. I did my rear diff in POR15 2 years ago. It's still nice and shiny. Or, it would be, if I cleaned all the oil spatter off it...
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Dale