Spacers are not needed for Bilsteins, and '87 should not have struts with built in spacers (my '90 had that, so the longer Bilstein/DeCarbon inverted monotube strut did not fit the '90 strut tube because the spacer was integrated into the bottom of the strut...so I changed to older strut tubes). I can't remember for sure, but I'm pretty sure all the regular stock struts used spacers, so you'll need to remove them. The GT/GLT/Turbo had orange DeCarbon struts that did not use spacers (same style as the Bilstein). Koni struts would require spacers, though.

The gland nut that holds the insert in the strut tube can be difficult to remove. May want to spray it ASAP with penetrating oil like p'blaster. A pipe wrench works well to remove the gland nut. Some people resort to a hammer & drift to break the nut loose. If it's stuck, heating it with a torch works to break the rust bond. Coat the threads of the new gland nuts with anti-seize and use the Bilstein tool to tighten the nuts.

Bilsteins have internal bump stops. The stock external bump stops will not fit over the Bilsteins, and they are not needed. You can slide the yellow casing of the Bilstein up to reveal the bump stop. It's a light press fit over the disc at the bottom of the strut, so if the casing does slide up, you haven't damaged anything.

After dropping the strut down and pulling it out from under the fender, you can install spring compressors and then blast the top nut off with the impact. Works great. I put struts back in by the same method, but the Bilsteins should accept a hex key at the top to hold the strut while you tighten the nut. That's almost impossible unless you have the special wrench, so just use the impact.

There's a single 12mm nut that holds the brake line bracket to the body directly behind the strut. Remove that, the sway bar from the end link, and the three nuts retaining the strut mount and it should swing out from under the fender.
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