Hi Everyone,

I just picked up a '92 240 wagon in pretty decent shape. It's currently not running and the PO says he had it checked out by a mechanic. It won't run and he believes it has an issue with the fuel system. The mechanic traced the problem to the wiring for the fuel injection. I have yet to really look it over, but I have some experience with 240's. Is there anything that I should start with in particular? The mechanic said that there is some sort of fault in the wiring system. I just wanted to gather some ideas before I look at it this weekend.

He also said that the mechanic recommended that the car get a replacement transmission ( AW-71 ). Supposedly it is having trouble going into reverse. For $350, it seemed like a good buy.
Thanks!
Dave

for not starting it could be the ignition module located left front fender and crankshift impulse position sensor could be at fault also

I figured out why the wagon wouldn't start. It turned out to be the crank sensor. I could reach down and wiggle the wires and the car would start. The insulation on the wires had turned to mush, so they were shorting out. My car had no check engine light, and was still getting spark at the plugs. I replaced the sensor today and it starts and runs great!

Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.

This should have set a code I think. Maybe you should check if the "Check Engine" lamp is working.

I got to take a look at my "new" '92 240 today. After cranking it over, I found that the fuel pumps are running. The car also seems to be getting spark because it stumbles and almost wants to start. That's as much as I could get it to do. I swapped in another ECU, but that didn't help. I also tried disconnecting the AMM and starting, but it still wouldn't go. It really seems like a timing issue to me. My plan was to go and check that the marks on the timing gear line up unless someone has a better idea.

Thanks!
Dave

New cap, rotor and plugs is always a good start on a new car. Get Bosch with Copper contacts. Make sure you have a good spark. Dan

Good idea. I might get new wires as well. The battery is pretty weak so that probably needs to be done too before I get anything else.

Make sure the battery is fully charged and you have good solid clean connections at the battery, starter and ground. Dan

The AW7x's transmissions are pretty bullet proof, so I'd want to check out a few things before replacing it. First, check for torn/mushey motor/transmission mounts. If they're gone, this can affect shift linkage alignment big time. Then check the shift linkage bushings and possibly the shift linkage adjustment. It's very common for the little nylon (or poly or whatever) bushings to wear out and fall out. In that case the shifter will be a bit sloppy and there may even be some inconsistency shifting into a gear like reverse. You inspect the linkage bushings from underneath the car -they're cheap and easy to replace. If, for whatever reason, someone has attempted to re-adjust the shift linkage then that could really create a problem. If the bushings are 100% then you check for proper shifter adjustment by simply moving the gear selector from D up to the stop before N, then from 2nd down to the stop before 1st, measuring the two distances. The distance from the detent position of the transmission gear to the stop in the gear selector housing at each end should be the same, otherwise you need to adjust the shift linkage underneath. Additionally, I'd want to give the trans a thorough flush before saying good-bye to it.

Use the site search feature to check for previous posts on your problem and the above suggestions.
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Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Fuses 4 and 6 and the Fuel pump relay under the glove box are a good place to start. Rotate the fuses in the holder and maybe just replace them for good measure.
As you rotate the key to start the engine hold the relay you should hear/feel two clicks one after the other just before the starter begins to rotate.
If the relay does not click twice place a jumper wire on the left side of the fuse panel between fuses 4 and 6. This bypasses the relay and forces both fuel pumps to run, are they running? Does the engine run? If so re-solder the circuit board on the relay or better yet replace it.

Check for spark at a plug, pull a plug is it wet or dry.

Wiring is not an issue for a 92 unless someone has butchered something along the way.
Dan

Hi Dan,

That was my thinking also was to start with the relay. I'm going to the shop where the car is at tomorrow to get the keys and title. The PO said that the mechanic was able to make the car run, but said it still has an issue with the electrics for the fuel system. I wonder if I got it running by jumpering #4 and # 6 fuses together? It just seems like the mechanic would have went for the FPR already since he's not new to older Volvo's. Still I need to get down there and check it out. I'll post back with findings.

Thanks!
Dave

All good points ...

I would also check all the grounds, there are a couple on the fuel rail. Although not as likely I would check the grounds on the Fuel Inj computer.

Also, you could buy a NOID light to see if the injectors are clicking.

you could also just stick a screwdrive to the injector and your ear on the handle.. listen for clicking. poor man noid light.

If none of these or previous susgestions prove anything, then your looking at ECU or ignition issues.

Good idea about the injectors....I'll check that this weekend.

Dave