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These are about the easiest cars of that vintage for a DIYer to work on. Parts are readily available, all it takes is money, but not in outrageous amounts. Rust in structural body areas is your biggest enemy, so check for that thoroughly. If you see bubbled paint, dig at it mercilessly. The most important structural parts are the "horns" that come down from the firewall. They support the engine and the whole front end of the car. If they have rot in them, you might as well forget the whole thing and look for a better specimen. Other usual rust spots are, rocker panels (structural but usually repairable), the trunk floor over the muffler, the flanges by means of which the fenders, front and rear, are bolted to the rest of the body, the arches where the rear fenders attach (they have bulges in them that are hard to replicate), and the bottoms of the doors. Rust in the floors is fairly common, but easy to repair with hardware store sheet metal, or available stamped panels. Any engine can be rebuilt for about $2K, many can be revived for much less. Many of them will start right up after a fluid change and some fresh gas, even after sitting for many many years. The SU carbs often need rebuilding, which cost $200-300. Once you learn how to tune them properly (nothing to be frightened of), you'll love them like puppy dogs. If the car you're looking at has 6v. electrics and a B16 in it and you don't want to rebuilt that engine, putting in a B18 or B20 is a simple swap. Up grading to 12V. is a little finicky but not difficult - we'll point you to lots of good information on that when you're ready.
Bob S.
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"62 PV544 (B20, M41), "71 142E, "93 240 Classic Wagon.
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