Here is an excellent detailed response by Paul Grimshaw from Swedespeed to my clutch adjustment question. Hope this makes the picture clearer .
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I've adjusted clutch cables many times on late-model 240s.
A few considerations:

(1) When the cable is disconnected from the fork, the clutch pedal drops to the floor. This occurs because of the tension in clutch pedal spring.

(2) The higher the cable tension (i.e. tight cable), the higher the pedal will sit above the floor of the footwell.

(3) Tightening the cable too much will move the clutch fork forward. This will reduce the pressure on the rdiaphragm springs in the clutch cover/pressure plate assembly.

So the challenge is to tighten the cable enough to:

a. give the pedal an acceptable range of travel (so when it is depressed, the diaphragm springs in the clutch cover are fully depressed;

b. maintain full pressure on the diaphragm springs within the clutch cover/pressure plate assembly; and

c. remove any slack in the cable that would permit the harmonic weight at the end of the cable (clutch fork end) from falling off.

Here's how you do it:

1. with the engine off, the parking brake on, and the car parked on level ground, crawl under the driver's side of the car;

2. locate the clutch fork;

3. Feel your way along the clutch cable until you locate an adjustment collar;

4. Turn the adjustment collar in the desired direction. Hint: Turning it one way will increase the tension on the cable. You'll notice some resistance, but the collar can be turned by hand. If it cannot, use penetrating oil. Don't use a wrench (i.e. channel locks), as the adjustment collar is plastic and easily broken.

Please note that the adjustment colalr can be a b*tch to turn if it's clogged with mud, road tar, or if the outer steel jacket of the clutch cable is rusty.

5. Get out from under the car and place your *hand* on the clutch pedal. Apply pressure on the pedal. It should move easily for about one half of an inch before resistance is felt. If it does not, re-adjust the cable.

6. Once you feel the cable is tightened to where it needs to be, place the car in neutral and start the engine.

7. Depress the clutch and put the car into gear. The stick should move easily. If it does not, it could be an indication that the cable is too loose.

8. Release the clutch slowly. The clutch should engage when the pedal is anywhere between one third and two thirds of its range of movement.

Hope this helps,


Here is part 2 where my additonal questions were answered
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The Haynes manual contains a number of inaccuracies. Figure 5.4 is incorrect, as late model 240s don't have a return spring connected to the fork. Second, the cable passes through the fork. The lug at the end of the bowden cable fits into a recess in the harmonic damper -- a 2 lb mass that (diagramatically) sits to the right of the fork. Third, the diagram of the adjustment mechanism on the clutch cable is all wrong. It may be accurate for early model cars, but the configuration for later model Volvos is much different.
FWIW, the first figure (118530) in the Volvo factory manual is also incorrect for the same reasons.

Figure 5.5 isn't right either. A pin and clip secure the banjo end of the cable to the pedal assembly.

These inaccuracies explain why the Haynes manual is better used as a blotter for the bottom of my coffee cup than a practical repair manual... it's of little use for 1986 and later 240s.

Quote, originally posted by gopesh »
How much slack it will leave at the clutch fork I have a haynes manual which has written the slack of 4-5 mm for M46 or M45 ( Most probably M45) at fork. Or slack should be checked at the pedal only.


The slack at the clutch fork will be barely noticable. There's usually just enough to lightly wiggle the harmonic damper.

It isn't possible (unless you have arms like Popeye) to move the clutch fork by hand without mechanical advantage. Also, the manner in which the clutch cable passes through the damper makes it impossible to accurately measure the slack.

Quote, originally posted by gopesh »
Is this absolute exact slack is important or there should simply be some slack (approx 1/2") at the pedal which will mean the clutch fork is resting at its position and is not pulled back. Any slack 1/2" or 1" should satisfy this.


Just measure it at the pedal using the method (hand depression) I've described. One inch slack in the clutch pedal is way too much. 1/2 of an inch is about right. If you tighten the cable more than that, there's a possibility that the fork is pressing on the release bearing and the diaphragm springs. Were this to occur, the life of both components and the clutch would be reduced.

To be absolutely clear, the 1/2 slack in the pedal takes the following into consideration:

a. cable slack;

b. the compression of the rubber bushing/grommet that sits between the harmonic damper and the clutch fork;

c. any space between the fork yolk and the release bearing; and

d. any wear in the pedal bushing.

That's a lot of variables, so there's little comparison between the 1/2 inch (12.5 mm) of slack that I've described and the 3-4mm described in the Haynes manual.

BTW, the 12.5 mm that I've highlighted falls within the 10-15mm range specified in the factory manual.
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Gopesh
DD-1990 240 DL SW M47II FI 3.1 220 K miles Turbo Sways,Custom headlight circuit ,Insulated roof,Tinted Glass,