Tim;

[I know it's a little late...I had some issues with this file...but I thought I'd still post it for the work that went into it...]

Welcome to the Forum!

You have there, a beautiful example of an Amazon. And as a '67, you probably have several desirable components such as dual exhaust downpipe (connected to a slightly less than desirable one-piece cast intake/exhaust manifold), pedal positioning brake light switch, possibly headreats (but looks like not), but maybe also the (useless as “ToaB”) Girling brake booster and that awful, performance robbing BW35 slushbox automatic.

The finish looks to be quite reasonable and well within the range of bringing back to its full factory sheen and beauty. Before even considering a repaint, I would recommend you spend some quality time with your new Swede and compound out (either by hand or with an orbital polisher) and polish a manageable section (like the hood). When finished,you will look like you've been attacked by a grizzly for all the oxidized red you will have removed, and likely get on yourself, but this will allow you literally some hands-on time with those lovely curves, and as has been experienced by many here, I expect you too will be amazed at how nicely these paint jobs come back...to just blow a new coat of paint on them would be both a shame and a waste!

I have responded to your private e-mail, but here are some further public suggestions: Surf around and take in all the experience and good information on the many sites and Fora around the globe, including Phil Singhers (US), Jim Hekker's (Kiwi), my SwEm site, (my apologies to the owners of the many fine and informative sites I didn't mention). Here is another English-speaking Volvo Forum based in Britain: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=9 If you are multi-lingual, I expect you could find even more...certainly Swedish, Dutch, and German...

From the better living through Chemistry Dept., I'd also lay in a stock of the following Disassembly, Rebuilding, and Reassembly aids: Croil/PB Blaster, Carb cleaner, Tri-Flow/Synthgrease, ATF, Graphite bearing Anti-Seize, Penetrox ACZP. For details on all, see: http://sw-em.com/Product%20Reviews.htm

Suggestions specific to your questions:
1. Hi-Lo Beam Switch: Remove, disassemble after drilling out rivets, inspect internals and rebuild with synthgrease on mechanism and contacts, replace rivets with screws on reassembly, reinstall, and have peace and tranquility with it for 40 more years! ...or you could buy and install a replacement VW one, but where the fun in that? [As a preventative measure, clean and treat six circuit connector on inner fender on driver side engine compartment, with ACZP].
2. Steering Slop: Adjust, after assuring steering gearbox is full (and seal is good and allows it to stay full!) of gear oil for lubrication. To adjust, disconnect from steering linkages (total removal is not necessary), and using a calibrated pull-scale, adjust top adjustment screw per instructions in the manuals...just wanging in the adjustment screw in is not recommended...accelerated wear will surely result!
3. Instrument Lighting (Turn Lights knob to vary brightness, while Lights are switched ON.): refer to wiring diagram at: http://sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg If Instrumentation Lighting doesn't work at all when turning knob, check Fuse 3 or six circuit connector under driver's side dashboard. Option: Bypass wirewound variable control (part of Lightswitch) to cure intermittency caused by scratchy wiper of the variable control. By removing red wires from terminal (unnumbered) and connecting it to 58b terminal, Instrumentation Lighting can be permanently set to be at full brightness.
4. "Hot Brakes": Its likely friction materials are not being pulled away when you release brakes, and remaining in more contact than they should...this suggests stuck pistons (front), linkages, pistons or other components (back), and should be one of the first things to be checked and resolved (dragging brakes are certainly hell on performance, mileage, and overheating the components doesn't do them any good either)...Discs on fronts require totally different care (obviously) than Drums on rears (ONLY USE PULLERS OF THE APPROVED DESIGNS TO REMOVE DRUMS! See: http://sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm)...determine which corners are dragging and you may want to report back to get advice and suggestions on how to proceed.
5. SU Carbs: Get a manual, and/or read all there is (and watch vids) on-line...that should take away most of the mystery...they can be a bit tricky, but with only about three moving parts (if you count the float-valves), how difficult can they really be?...they are marvelous pieces of engineering, do quite well in the performance dept. and are the mechanical version of an engine management map you are used to! Sure OE air filters are expensive, but there are several decent alternatives. I suggest you think twice before replacing them with a downdraft Weber!
6. Hot Temp Indication: Check accuracy of your Temp Gauge before pulling the alarm. Remove sensing bulb of filled thermal system carefully, place in styrofoam cup and pour in known boiling water, check indication against cal marks. See: http://sw-em.com/service%20notes.htm#Gauges

BTW, vintage Volvos have OBD...version “0”...(YOU!...you just need to aware of the inputs, so always listen to the noises and take notice of any new ones...they are telling you something!)

Suggested reading: Reviving a VV

Now enough reading...and typing already!...time to get to work!

Cheers