I wouldn't be surprised if the reason (whatever that might be) your rotor was broken/burned is at the heart of your no-start--but you may have two things going on. Check first that the electrical post through the distributor body is properly insulated from the body. If you disconnect the wire from the coil and rotate the motor (by hand) so the points are open there should be no continuity (check with an ohm meter) from that post to ground. With the coil reconnected, the points open and the ignition on there should be + voltage (test light on) at that post and at the moving part of the point set. Rotating the motor so the points close should result in a test light going off (or volt meter to 0). Sometimes the points themselves have to be wiped clean of any preservative that may keep the new point set from grounding as it should with the points closed. As far as the broken rotor--check for wobble in the distributor shaft--beyond that I don't know what would cause that broken rotor condition. -- Dave