Hello all,

I decided to support a drive movie theater today and had a great drive out to the location. Just after I purchased my ticked and started driving into the lot to find a place to park, I depressed the clutch pedal and as I pulled my foot back to release it it did not return. I had some help push the car to a spot in the lot and I dove in to have a look at the problem. The linkage part that connects the cable to the pedal had failed. I tried my damndest to reconnect the pedal to the cable with zip-ties but was unsuccessful. Sadly I didn't get to see the movie as I spent so much time upside down in the dark (well I did have a flash light) trying to reconnect the two parts to limp home. I've left it there over night and have to move it out before the movies tomorrow night.

Now, the cable itself did not snap, the yoke on the end that had a hole through each side to mate with the pin running through the pedal arm now resembles two tuning forks.

Sadly I didn't think to check at the time, but does the end that has failed un-scred or detach from the cable in any way? I'm wondering if I can stop by the pull and pay tomorrow and pull this part so I can drive it back. My feeling is that the end is probably fused to the cable.

If it is not possible to simply replace this end of the cable, how hard is it to replace the cable itself? I assume worst case is separating the engine from the transmission which is obviously not something I want to do at the drive-in. If not and I could do it in an hour or two, I'd love to spend the time and learn more about the car instead of towing it home.

Also, if the cable has to be swapped and can be done without splitting the engine from transmission, I'm guessing I need something from a 82 NA or earlier from the parts yard (based on the parts listed at FCP groton)?

Ideas and tips always appreciated from all knowledgeable brick boarders.

Alex

Found two decent cables at the PNP, one with the metal exterior and one rubber. Grabbed both so I'll have some backup now. Probably need to get a new one anyway since both of the used ones show signs of wear like the one that failed. I'm going to guess that the failed cable had failed on one side years ago and the other side finally gave out (it was bent outward on one side).

I was pleasantly surprised how easy it is to swap them (except for that rubber bushing you have to push the blub through on the fork end). having a little vasoline or similar type product on hand would make it a breeze. not thinking to bring that, I just used a little grease/oil found on the oil pan to get that bulb end through the rubber.

Thanks everyone for the help! Don't know why I was so stressed about it being complicated. I know I've noticed the fork sticking out before and how simple it appeared. Guess the stress just got to me last night. Should have looked at the Bentley manual before letting crazy ideas fill my head too.

Now that you've learned to drive a manual transmission car...

it's really a good idea to learn to shift clutchless. Can't tell you how many friends have called me, needing me to drive their car to a safe place after a clutch cable (or hydraulic) failure...

Simple as matching engine speed to road speed for your desired gear, and you can go up and down the gears fine, no grinding. When you come to a stop, you have to turn the engine off and start it in gear while lurching forward in 1st.

Cars that will only start if in neutral... well, I suppose SOL, or maybe pushing the clutch pedal in bypasses it.

It's a good thing to know how to do though. Well worth practicing when your clutch is functioning properly, so you can use it if you need it.
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

I certainly do this from 3rd to 4th frequently... like butter. occasionally from 2nd to 3rd... haven't tried 1st to 2nd though. seems like it would take some practice and speed on the shift.

I opted not to try starting it in gear as I know my clutch isn't in the best shape as it is. I guess starting in 2nd may be a little easier on the clutch though? probably harder to get it to start.

well, it's good to know I have options and now that I have a spare cable I'll probably never have this problem again.

You will need a new cable assembly, get the OEM brand Gemo the first time. Any year 1976 - 93 240 will work if the PNP has any.
Dan

Supposedly you can drive the car without using the clutch. Getting engine speed right before shifting into gear.

Clutch cable replacement is easy (10-15 minutes) if the plastic body by the clutch arm slides forward and out easily.

Though you have "tuning forks", you still have a "neck" around which I guess you tried putting zip ties to form circles, to replace the "tuning forks". Would rope knotted around yoke and arm strength work to release clutch?
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

I had thought that I would also be able to operate the clutch by hand. I tried zip-ties around the end and around a tie down strap I had in the trunk. It was not enough to release the clutch though and just caused the zip ties to snap. Even if it were strong enough, you would need some super human strength to release it.

Well, looks like I'll head off to the pull and pay to see if I can get a cable off without damaging it or me in the process.

Looks like all clutch cables from 75-93 are the same. The trick to replacement is to adjust the cable in such a way that you can get it on the clutch fork. There is a weight and a rubber thing that you have to get the steel ball on the clutch end to hold onto as well onto the fork. I can't remember which way you adjust the cable to make it longer but there is a way. I hook mine to the pedal first and then pull it through the steel frame that holds the adjuster. Look for a cable with metal sleeving over the cable rather than rubber.