"I’d like to see you try that without the spring compressed."


We are talking about "loosening" the nut, not removing it (yet). And I've done it many times, at the start a strut job, with the car's weight on the springs, and about 1/4" of rod threads showing above that thick nut. Then it's safe to break it loose (using the tool I posted about for your consideration). Later, after lowering (or removing) the whole unit and compressing the springs further, the nut can safely be removed the rest of the way.

That's a short version of the process described in the Bentley/Haynes manuals but unfortunately a bit late for you, with your struts wallowing in the dust. When were you planning to use the compressors? I'd do it now. Then, should you somehow get the strut nut off, you'll be ready to loosen the gland nut. Do you have access to a large vise? Be careful not to crush the strut tube.

As for your original question, and rebuttal of all suggestions offered so far, you seem to have painted your self in a corner at this point. Had you been more forthcoming with your plans (and limitations) sooner, this thread would have been a lot shorter, IMO. About now, I'd go for the pipe wrench approach. A good one might get a bite on the chromed rod if clamped to the spring with vise-grips. Maybe cold chiseling the rod first might help the wrench to grip it.

But what's the backstory here? Does this debacle somehow connect to your earlier quest for ATe front caliper repair kits? No, you posted success there I believe. Or was it my suggestion that you do a strut swap? If so, that was my mistake and I apologize for assuming too much.


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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.